从夜暮到黎明 From dusk to dawn : Asian Cultural Symphony Orchestra (ACSO) - A Symphonic Portrait of Singapore's Towns

On 4 August 2024, the enchanting musical performance “A Symphonic Portrait of Singapore's Towns” took place at the Victoria Concert Hall. Organised by the Asian Cultural Symphony Orchestra (ACSO 亚洲文化乐团), this captivating event explored the rich tales and histories nestled within Singapore's vibrant neighbourhoods. They offered a multifaceted exploration of Singapore's identity.

A Symphonic Portrait of Singapore's Towns. Syafiqah, the woman in blue playing accordion, is the composer for Geylang Serai.

For me, it was the first time to work with a symphony orchestra. My past collaborations with SCO (新加坡华乐团) and Dingyi Music Company (鼎艺团) proved to be useful.

Through Musical Director Adrian Chiang, I learned that the birth of ACSO drew inspiration from SG50. ACSO was formerly registered in early 2016 to champion Asian cultural music and symphonic works composed in an Asian aesthetic. ACSO provides a platform for local musicians to explore Asian symphonic music, which is not part of typical symphony orchestras in Asia or SSO in Singapore. However, the journey has never been smooth. The key concern is to raise sufficient funds to sustain every individual performance and to draw enough paid audience. Even SSO has to give away free tickets!

This concert enabled me to meet the relatively young but highly talented composers Germaine Goh, Sulwyn Lok, Felix Phang, Terrence Wong and Syafiqah 'Adha Sallehin. The five musical pieces composed are Toa Payoh, Bedok, Queenstown, Tiong Bahru and Geylang Serai.

Germaine (right), the composer for Toa Payoh.

I walked around the various towns and shared stories with them. I learned about the musical journeys they have gone through at the same time. Nearer to the concert, each composer brought their unique perspective and artistic vision, weaving together melodies and harmonies that reflected the rich tapestry of Singaporean culture.

Sulwyn (right), the composer for Bedok.

During the concert, Germaine and Syafiqah also performed on piano and accordion, respectively, adding to the magical experience. Music brought old towns to life and touched people’s hearts.

Terrence (left), the composer for Tiong Bahru.

Toa Payoh - Dreams and Hopes

Toa Payoh is a testament to Singapore's public housing success, where dreams take flight and communities thrive. From its iconic dragon playground to the bustling HDB Hub, Toa Payoh is a symphony of everyday life, a testament to the resilience and spirit of its people.

Toa Payoh was originally known as "Toah Pyoh, " meaning "big swamp". In the early 20th century, Toa Payoh began to transform from swampland to the vibrant town we know today. It became the focus of the HDB’s second five-year construction plan. In 2002, HDB relocated its headquarters to HDB Hub, right in the heart of Toa Payoh. This move symbolised Toa Payoh's importance as the first satellite estate planned and built by the HDB. HDB Hub has become a beacon of progress and brought dreams to many young families.

As part of preparations for the 1973 Southeast Asian Peninsular Games, town parks, green spaces, and the iconic observation tower were quickly built. They became popular spots for family outings and wedding photos.

Bedok - Legacy by the Sea

From its humble beginnings as a fishing village, Bedok has blossomed into a vibrant town, where the past and present harmoniously coexist.

The reservoir, once a source of livelihood, now offers a tranquil escape for families and nature lovers. It's a place where the kampung spirit thrives, where community bonds are strong and memories are made. It is the sound of water meeting the sky, the laughter of children echoing across the water, and the warmth of community spirit.

"Bedok" is shown as "Sunebodo" (Sungei Bedok) on Manuel Godinho de Eredia's 1604 map, proving that the place was already known in the ancient days.

Bedok may be named after the Malay word "bedoh", a wooden drum that indicates daily Islamic prayers. It may also mean "biduk", the name of the small fishing boats that were once common in Sungei Bedok.-

The villagers of Kampong Bedok were once fishermen and coconut plantation workers. In the 1960s, land reclamation transformed their livelihoods, with many becoming hawkers at Bedok Point Food Centre.

Queenstown - The Firsts

Queenstown is an oasis of calm near the heart of the city. It is a testament to Singapore's commitment to green spaces, a place where nature and urban life find harmony. The rustling leaves, the birdsong, the gentle breeze – it is a symphony of nature. A place where green spaces flourish, and urban life finds harmony with the natural world.

Queenstown, named in honour of Queen Elizabeth II, was Singapore’s first satellite town in the 1950s. This initiative pioneered urban planning, transforming Singapore into a modern, liveable society.

The seven-storey Princess House, once the headquarters of the HDB, is a testament to the modernist architecture of the time. This national monument has hosted foreign dignitaries to learn about Singapore’s success in public housing, and offers panoramic views from its rooftop.

The town centre was once vibrant and joyful, with Tai Chung Emporium (大众百货公司) the focal point of a bustling shopping complex. Cinemas such as Golden City, Venus and Palace became social gathering places, and the bowling alley connected youth and sports enthusiasts.

Felix (5th person from the right standing in the front row) is the composer for Queenstown. Credit: Heng Swee Keat

Tiong Bahru - Rising from the "New Tiong"

Tiong Bahru is a living museum, a place where the past and present intertwine, creating a unique melody of its own. The Art Deco buildings, the hidden cafes, and the stories whispered in the market inspire multi-generations.

Tiong Bahru, meaning “new cemetery” in Hokkien and Malay, is a testament to Singapore's multicultural heritage. “Tiong” means “grave” in Hokkien and “Bahru” means “new” in Malay. Once a burial ground, it transformed into a residential haven, now celebrated for its unique blend of old and new.

Tiong Bahru was the first housing project handled by the Singapore Improvement Trust in 1927. It took more than 20 years to become a full-fledged housing estate. The architectural gems, with their Art Deco charm, are a window into Singapore's past, a reminder of a bygone era.

The 19th-century graves of Tan Tock Seng and his daughter-in-law still lie at the foot of Outram Hill, directly opposite Tiong Bahru. These ancient landmarks are silent witnesses to the changing landscape of the Tiong Bahru.

Geylang Serai – An Affection of Malay Settlement

Geylang Serai is the heart of Singapore's Malay community, where traditions are cherished and celebrations are vibrant. It is a feast for the senses. The aroma of spices, the vibrant textiles, the call to prayer – it's a symphony of Malay culture.

Did you know that Geylang means factory, Serai means lemongrass? Once upon a time, Geylang Serai was where lemongrass was grown and processed into essential oil. Lemongrass is also used to add flavour to Tom Yum, Nyonya's assam fish head and Malay’s curry.

Street names usually include Road, Lorong, Avenue, etc. However, Geylang Serai (Road) is unique. It is just Geylang Serai.

The traditional Malay theatre arts of Bangsawan are an integral part of the local community. The Malay tradition also attracted the Peranakans and Eurasians, who all had their troupes. These performances, full of the essence of multiculturalism, captured the hearts of the people of Geylang Serai.

During the Japanese occupation, some of the residents of Geylang Serai grew tapioca, locally known as ubi. This gave rise to Kampong Ubi.