Friday, October 16, 2026

槟城 大山脚与浮罗山背

大山脚,Bukit Meratajam。Meratajam是一种树名,但指向同一座地标——卓坤山(Bukit Tokun)。

2023年7月中旬,马来西亚的疫情管制已解封一年有余。我们直飞槟城,主要目的是吃榴梿。租了一辆 Toyota Noah,从槟榔屿驱车跨过槟威大桥,于正午时分抵达威省(Seberang Perai)的大山脚。接待我们的“地主”,是素未谋面的张文华(Henry)。他像许多热情好客的大马人一样,初见便毫无距离,仿佛旧识重逢。

文华带我们到容记饭店(另一面招牌写着“容记鸡饭”),品尝三代潮州人延续下来的古早味;随后又领我们走访巴刹街与菜园,参观圣安纳天主堂(St Anne’s Church),以及那位历经政治风雨、终以“胜者回归”的现任首相安华的老家。一路行来,他又做东请我们共进晚餐;饭后回到他布置雅致的家中,品茶闲谈,夜色渐深。

文华(左二)带我们到容记饭店品尝三代潮州人延续下来的古早味。

最难忘的一幕,是回到家后,文华做的第一件事,是先去照料家中的老狗。狗与人一样,会成长,也会衰老;到了风烛残年,视力、听觉乃至身体机能,都一一衰退。人一世,物一世,送君千里,终须一别。真正动人的,从来不是离别本身,而是在最后的时光里,如何不离不弃,如何珍惜相伴,好好道一声告别。

在文华布置雅致的家中,品茶闲谈,夜色渐深。

 

圣安纳天主堂

若要理解大山脚的历史,不妨从教堂说起。

1658年,法国传教士已在威省建立起小型教堂,其中以淡汶(Bukit Tambun)与双溪里武村(牛河村,Sungai Lembu)最为古老。圣安纳天主堂则为第三间,最初于1846年建于山坡之上,1888年迁至现址。疫情之前,罗马教廷将其升格为乙级宗座圣殿(Minor Basilica of St Anne),地位更为显赫。

圣安纳天主堂。

在圣安纳天主堂山脚,有一块于1845年发现的“卓坤大石”,石头上刻有梵文,其历史甚至早于教堂本身。遗憾的是,由于早年保护不足,大石曾被游客随意刻写,留下时代与人性的双重痕迹。

1845年发现的“卓坤大石”,石头上刻有梵文,其历史甚至早于教堂本身。

当地人说,每年7月29日圣安纳主保日(St Anne’s Feast Day),教堂都会举行长达十天的庆典。来自各地的信徒纷纷前来朝圣,访客人数可逾十万,小镇也因此短暂地热闹起来。 

21世纪扩建的“新”圣安纳天主堂。


伯公埕玄天庙与巴刹街

19世纪末,铁路建成通车,大山脚逐渐成为交通枢纽。定居于此的华人以潮州人为主,于是玄天庙、毗邻的巴刹与巴刹街,便自然形成小镇的生活核心。

伯公埕的小贩档口在屋檐下营业。

人们清晨上巴刹买菜,在小摊前吃一顿简单的早餐,顺道在路边喝一杯凉茶。除了节庆时的热闹喧腾,其余日子则平静如常,日复一日,年复一年,昨天、今天与明天,仿佛并无太多不同。

伯公埕原是一片水潭。村民将其填平后,逐渐在周围摆摊营生,并设立小神龛供奉。随着岁月推移,小神龛不断扩建,最终成为今日的玄天庙。它不仅是信仰中心,也维系着周边商铺与居民的精神归属。每年为期15天的中元节活动,已延续了180年。

于疫情管制期间修复的玄天庙。

冠病疫情前的一场大火曾将庙体焚毁,如今所见,是在疫情期间依原貌修复后的建筑。老档口也陆续回迁,巴刹街重新恢复人气。

这一带仍保留着不少老店。我们在容记饭店吃下的那顿午餐,自然难以忘怀。多年之后,仍记得石三戏院、泉成木屐,以及巷口的苏老全凉茶。

歇业多年的石三戏院。

泉成木屐。

在地人的记忆中,昔日的传统戏院——丽光、国泰与石三——早已歇业多年。而苏老全凉茶自1967年至今,已守候半个多世纪。三位老人家日复一日准时开档,从青壮年走到满头白发。他们一年只在农历新年休息五天、清明节休息一天,其余时光,风雨无阻。

苏老全凉茶自1967年至今,已守候半个多世纪。

 

浮罗山背 榴梿落下的偶遇

离开大山脚后的翌日,我们从乔治市驱车前往浮罗山背(Balik Pulau),在 2 Acres Café 吃榴梿。

浮罗山背镇中心的交通圈。

浮罗山背华人区的壁画地标。

“浮罗山背”这个名字,本身就很有意思。Balik Pulau 原意为“回到岛上”或“岛的另一边”,但早期华人并未照字面直译,而是采用更贴近生活的说法,“浮罗”音译自 Pulau(岛),“山背”则指位于山脉背后的地理位置。这个地名便成了一个融合音译与意译的产物,也像一幅旧地图,既记录语言的痕迹,也保留人们对地形的直观理解。

咖啡馆坐落于幽静的山野之间,吃完榴梿后,可在原地坐下喝一杯咖啡,是个可以让时间停顿的地方。

2 Acres Café 坐落于幽静的山野之间,榴梿都是来自附近榴槤园的上等品种。

2 Acres Café 不是榴梿园,因为园中仅有一棵榴梿树。榴梿都是来自附近榴梿园的上等品种,开出来的都色香味俱全。

这家咖啡馆是在冠病疫情解封后才开业的。我初访时,它不过开张半年;这一次再来,不过又是半年之后,却已多了几分熟悉与回味。

2 Acres Café 的榴梿都是上好品种。两位来自深圳的女生坐在我们后面。

我们在那里休闲两个多小时。临走前,看到两位比我们更早到的女生,仍然坐在原位发呆。她们来自深圳,一直在等 Grab,却迟迟无人接单。入山容易出山难,又有多少司机愿意特地驶入这片偏远之地载客?

我们半开玩笑地问她们,怕被我们带入“荷兰”吗?现代年轻人不明白“荷兰”的隐喻,开心地上了我们的车。

两位来自深圳的女生上了我们的车,终于可以离开几乎鸟不生蛋的地方,回到USM。

途中聊起音乐。原来年轻人是孙燕姿的歌迷,《城里的月光》则是父母年代的歌,从小听他们哼唱。

抵达她们的“荷兰”——马来西亚理科大学(USM),已约好朋友共进晚餐。就此别过

回想起这段榴梿缔造的偶遇,成为人在旅途,一段不纯粹是意外谱写的旋律。再次擦肩而过时是否还认得对方?我应该不认得了。



Friday, October 09, 2026

Yellow Ribbon Run: Running Beyond the Finish Line

 On 20 September 2026, I traded my usual Sunday routine for a sea of green.

The Yellow Ribbon Run has traditionally been associated with the symbolic hills around Changi Prison. This year marked the 22nd anniversary of the Yellow Ribbon movement, and for the first time, the flagship event moved to the Kallang precinct.

I signed up for the 10km category. This was my first time participating in the Yellow Ribbon Run. I was curious to see what it would feel like to run for a cause that goes beyond the finish line.

I collected the run pack at Suntec one week before the run.

 

Haze Watch

Haze from Indonesia affected Singapore's air quality in the week leading up to the race. Fortunately, the skies cleared in time for the 7am flag-off.

The first Downtown Line train departed from Expo and reached Tampines East Station at 5.59am. About 30 minutes later, I arrived at Stadium Station and stepped into an already vibrant atmosphere. As time went by, more than 7,000 participants, easily recognisable in their event T-shirts, were gathering around the venue.

The baggage-deposit station was efficiently organised with little fuss.

A mass-participation race is a logistical exercise in itself. The baggage-deposit station was efficiently organised with little fuss. I had collected my bib a week earlier at Suntec. Mine was #11030, with the leading “1” indicating the 10km category and helping the marshals direct runners into the correct holding pens.

As time went by, more and more participants were gathering around the starting line.

Even the timing system was slightly different from what I was used to. Instead of a timing chip attached to the back of the bib, we fitted passive RFID tags to our shoelaces. Sitting near our feet, the tags recorded the precise moment we crossed the timing gantries.

Then came the moment we had been waiting for. The flag dropped, and the crowd moved enthusiastically.

 

Settled in with My Own Pace

The 10km route looped around the Kallang riverside. The course was always crowded with little free space to manoeuvre. Once settled in, I found my usual endurance rhythm, running between 8:00 and 8:30 minutes per kilometre. There was little breeze that morning, and the heat and humidity quickly made themselves felt. After just one kilometre, my body was already soaked.

I kept my steps short and steady, with an average cadence of 156 and a maximum of 165 spm. At that pace, I could breathe and take in the surroundings.

That is one of the things I enjoy about distance running. You learn to find a pace that you can sustain. Not the fastest pace. Not someone else's pace. Your own. Perhaps that is also true of life.

While the 10km runners tackled the longer route, others were taking part in the 5km event. Families joined the inaugural 888m Parent-Child Run. Different distances, different abilities, but everyone was moving in the same direction.

That was perhaps part of the Yellow Ribbon Run message too.

 

Beyond the Finish Line

I crossed the finish line near the National Stadium at around the 1-hour-20-minute mark.

That was roughly my usual pace for a casual run. Running has taught me that improvement is not always about being faster. Sometimes, it is simply about continuing.

There were runners ahead of me and behind me. Some were much faster; others were taking their time. I did not feel the need to compete with any of them. I was running against my own mind and body.

Immediately after the finishing line.

After crossing the finish line, I queued for a cup of 100PLUS and my finisher's medal. The race was well organised, and I found the overall experience much smoother than the Great Green Run I took part in this June.

The medal was not what stayed with me. It was the idea behind the yellow ribbon.

The idea behind the yellow ribbon stayed with me.

 

We Are Each Other's Second Chances

The event registration fees support the core members of the CARE Network, including Yellow Ribbon Cares, the Singapore Anti-Narcotics Association (SANA), and the Singapore After-Care Association (SACA).

The Yellow Ribbon Project has engaged more than 300,000 Singaporeans since 2004. On race day, thousands of them gathered under the message of building “A Nation Beyond Second Chances” and moving beyond the stigma of a criminal past.

One phrase caught my attention: “We Are Each Other's Second Chances.”

A second chance is not simply about starting over after making a mistake. Forgiveness may help someone get back on their feet. Rebuilding a life in society requires much more — employment, education, family, community support, and people willing to give someone another opportunity.

A second chance is a long journey. And perhaps running is not such a bad metaphor for that journey.

None of us learns to walk without falling first. We make mistakes in life. We make poor decisions at work. We take wrong turns. Sometimes we stop. Sometimes we have to find our way back.

Personal growth is rarely a straight line. It is more like running a long distance: try, stumble, adjust, slow down, find your rhythm, and keep going. It is about the opportunities to start again, and again.

A race has a starting line and a finishing line. Life is not quite so simple. For some people, getting to the starting line again may be an achievement.

The important thing is not how quickly they get there, or whether they move at the same pace as everyone else. It is that they are given a chance to move forward.

Perhaps that is what “Beyond 2nd Chances” really means. A second chance does not erase the past. The past has happened, and its consequences remain. But the past does not have to determine the next chapter.

Just as I have learned to accept my own pace on the 10km course, perhaps society also needs to give people the space, support and time to find their way again.

The finish line matters. But sometimes, the most important part of the journey is being given the chance to start.

Beyond 2nd Chances: Yellow Ribbon booths in the Kallang Wave Mall.


Links

Tuesday, October 06, 2026

新加坡肥皂业先驱洪毂坚

作者:何乃强
 

新加坡开埠初年,因四面环海,其经济发展着重于商业、区域海运、土产贸易及金融业,工业方面则慢了一步。英国殖民者仅将新加坡定位为自由转口贸易港,并无现代意义上的“工业化”计划;英资洋行则垄断了关键的转口贸易、航运与橡胶加工等环节。本地人为了打破垄断,从洋人忽视的边缘地带寻找突破口,肥皂等简单日用品的生产便是其中之一,由此迈出独立发展本土工业的第一步。

19世纪末,本地先驱不再把生胶直接卖给欧洲洋行,而是自己建厂加工。此举发端于 “橡胶大王”陈嘉庚(1874—1961)。他在新加坡建立了庞大的陈嘉庚公司,开设橡胶鞋厂、轮胎厂以及黄梨罐头厂,这是新加坡历史上第一个由本地人建立的、从原材料种植到成品加工再到出口的完整产业链条,产品直接销往全球,完全不必依赖洋人。

 

肥皂业如雨后春笋

轻工业方面,则以肥皂业扮演重要角色。华商们为了打破西方洋行垄断、满足本地民生需求,开始合力进军肥皂制造。19世纪末(约1885年或更早),周文礼(1852—1933)创立 “集成肥皂厂” 。到了20世纪初,“蔡嘉种肥皂厂” (Chua Kah Cheong Soap Factory Co.)于1908年创立 ,产品大量销往东南亚及中东各地,俨然成为一个肥皂业王国。

1910至1920年代,洪毂坚(Ang Kok Kian,1869? —1939)是20世纪初新加坡本地华商制皂业的一位重要先驱。他在合乐路创办的“时鲜肥皂厂” 曾成功打破西方跨国肥皂品牌在东南亚的垄断局面。

洪毂坚遗照 取自洪公墓碑。

至于林秉祥(1872—1944),是肥皂制造业的后来者。他的和丰肥皂制造厂迟至1928年才在秉祥码头一带创立,但一般认为,他对新加坡工业化贡献很大。

 

狗头标肥皂创办人

笔者曾经写过周文礼、“蔡大人”蔡嘉种和林秉祥,这里要认识另一位重要工业元老——大成肥皂厂(Tay Seng Soap Factory)创办人洪毂坚。

洪毂坚原籍中国福建省南安县。20世纪10年代,他曾携家眷移居马来亚太平,两年后因看好新加坡的发展前景而南下。

他在新加坡创办的众多产业中,最成功的便是设在合乐路555号以及在南京街的时鲜肥皂厂(See Sen Soap Factory)。该厂推出了极具辨识度的“狗头标”(Dog's Head)肥皂。虽然当时的市场销量略逊于另一家本地大厂“和丰肥皂厂”(Ho Hong Soap Factory),但“狗头标”凭借优良品质,在二战前及战后初期的新加坡、马来亚、婆罗洲(加里曼丹)以及香港地区都极具知名度,是当时少数能与西方大品牌抗衡、打破洋货垄断的本土华商。

时鲜牌肥皂公司广告。《叻报》1929年8月19日。

洪毂坚于1939年逝世后,遗下四子四女及十一名孙辈。他与妻子郭清金(Madam Kwek Cheng Kim)合葬于武吉布朗(咖啡山)一座规模不小的墓冢。

洪毂坚的家族生意由长子洪海山(Ang Hai Sun)继承。为了彻底解决制造肥皂原料受制于人的问题,洪海山在接棒后不仅扩大肥皂厂的生产规模,还跨界进军椰油榨油业(Oil Milling),从而实现了“从原材料加工到成品制造”的供应链闭环,进一步巩固其本土肥皂业的地位。这包括:Nai Beng & Co. 销售的狗标肥皂(Dog Brand Soap);时鲜公司(See Sen & Co.)的环球商标及人字牌肥皂(Globe & Man Brand Soap)、电话牌肥皂(Telephone Brand Soap);以及安生公司(Aun Sing & Co.)的最佳肥皂(Best Soap)、方通公司(Hong Tong & Co.)的最佳肥皂(Best Soap)、万昌公司(Bancheon & Co.)的最佳肥皂(Best Soap)等各类品牌。

尽管如此,在宋旺相所著《新加坡华人百年史》中,并没有把洪毂坚这位工业元老列入“史册”。相信这主要是因为洪毂坚的史迹不属于宋所定下的1819至1919年时间范围。

尽管随着时代变迁,“狗头标”肥皂在几十年后停产并退出历史舞台,但这个本土老字号的印记却被永久保留下来。

洪毂坚家族仍在新加坡留下巴克路19号(19 Barker Road)一座城堡式豪宅:该建筑外墙上仍保留着当年时鲜肥皂厂标志性的英国斗牛犬“狗头标”浮雕,作为家族在新加坡工业传奇的见证。气势宏伟的四层城堡式豪宅是长子洪海山当年建造的,作为家族工业传奇的见证,是重要的历史印记。

洪毂坚及其家族在新加坡工业史上留下的印记,至今仍值得后人铭记。

洪毂坚家族的巴克路19号(19 Barker Road)城堡式豪宅,大门左右有狗头标的标志。图源:李国樑

 

参考文献

1.         Ang Kok Kian and family (Bukit Brown) — Rojak Librarian, 2021年2月28日

2.         Ang Yik Han, Ang Kok Kian – Pioneer of Soap Industry, bukitbrown.com.

3.         Song O S, One Hundred Years' History of The Chinese in Singapore, London: John Murray, 1923.

4.         何乃强,“企业大亨林秉祥”,《联合早报》2023年11月6日。

5.         幼吾(何乃强),“和和饼干厂创办人周文礼”,《联合早报》2023年3月13日。

6.         何乃强. “蔡大人蔡嘉种”,从夜暮到黎明博客网,2026年9月15日。

7.         Ho Ee Kid,  Ang Kok Kian's castle-like mansion in Singapore, Singapore Heritage, Monuments,Places of Interest, August 16, 2023.  

8.         The history behind the Boon Lay area in Jurong and how it grew from his early estates, The Straits Times, 29 October 1994.

9.         History of Soap Making in Singapore, Singaporesoap.com