Friday, September 24, 2021

您的价值若干?

1871年,日本聘请美国人Horace CapronWilliam Clark等农学家,指导拓荒者以现代化的方式开垦农田。70年内,北海道从几千人发展至超过200万人。21世纪,人口增至600万人。

Horace Capron在几乎鸟不生蛋的北海道寻找人类生活的痕迹:死亡的寂静支配着这片令人惊叹的景色。没有一片树叶被惊扰,没有一声鸟儿的啼鸣,也没有任何其他生物的气息。

胆敢从日本岛跨海而来的人,必须经受严酷的寒冬、崎岖的火山,以及凶猛的野生动物。因此,一路来日本政府将它保留给依靠渔猎生活的原住民阿伊努人。因为担心沙俄入侵,才雇用从前的武士,开拓此8万多平方公里的岛屿。

北海道人的自豪与自我肯定的精神面貌从此展开。

美瑛町富田农场:北海道人的自豪与自我肯定的精神面貌是自信的表现

 

北海道的故事是一面反射镜

北海道的故事套到赤道上的岛国,就像一面反射镜。我一家子都来自邻里学校,最大的成就感是学会人都有各自的价值,深知无论是最精英、最厉害的谁都避不开理发师的剃头刀。

为什么从现代北海道的起源谈到人的价值呢?

事缘2021914日国会辩论新加坡人的工作与生计动议时,坐在国会席上的外交部长维文私底下出招,嘲笑新加坡前进党非选区议员梁文辉的出身,视频中听到他和身旁另一名部长在座位上评论对手不识字学校肯定很差劲等。

我们盐吃多了,兵来将挡,水来土掩,自然老神在在;倒是孩子的直觉反应相当强烈,如果来自RI名校的梁文辉被形容得一文不值,他们岂非一堆扶不上壁的烂泥?留在这个土生土长的地方还有什么意义?

后来他们意识到如果有自信,能够肯定自己的价值,庸才论根本不值一顾。无论身居何位,都离不开广东人说的:面系人啲畀,架系自己丢。

 

强烈反应并非小众

强烈反应并非一两个人片面之见,根据我在网上的观察,维文的平庸论已经引起草根的不安,促使他必须于隔日拨电向梁文辉道歉,各大媒体都报道这则道歉新闻,接下来一个星期,几乎每天都有人在报章上为他打圆场。

如果不是因为直播录像外传,维文是否向对手道歉还是个未知数。

私底下毫无防范的话往往是真心话,在大庭广众面前讲的,或是看着讲稿的,都是包装过的政治语言。嘲笑声中所引起的负面情绪,因一般民众被外来人才包围的现状而扩大。新加坡政策学院的调查,八成接受访问的公众人士觉得全球化对经济有好处,但一般人认为外人抢走饭碗。无论政府如何引经据典,都改变不了受影响的民众的直觉。

或许位处高位的一些人士所缺乏的是地气,无法了解到民众的日常生活就是地铁、巴士、德士、食阁、超市、商场、公园、职场。老百姓每天在这些公共场合跟各族人士擦肩而过,共用空间,他们的切身感受就像追踪冠病疫情的TraceTogether ,一旦发生阳性反应,警号就会响起。

国会辩论中,几位部长轮流上阵,都无法简单直接地解释那些数据,最后只能避重就轻,以手头上没有相关数据、挑拨种族主义、 英雄不问出身等带过。

虽然国会已经休会,相关课题将继续在民间燃烧。至于精英、人才与庸才的分野,如果还不着手处理,相信很快的就会形成一股漩涡。


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Tuesday, September 21, 2021

河水山,乌桥头

文:郭兆树
图:郭兆树

乌桥头河水山是我童年的一段回忆;1964年底从市区搬来河水山,就住在第26座组屋。1965年头开始在河水山西华文小学读三年级,隔邻是河水山东英文小学。

我家应是入住河水山组屋的首批住户之一,那时立达中学还没落成。当时的奇观之一是有个印度人,久不久就赶一群牛来吃草,那些牛在草地上大便,牛群走后留下一坨一坨的粪便,清洁工人也不清理,任它风吹雨打溶入草地。

当年河水山有两座面向合乐路的十六层楼组屋:大牌2229。大牌29不知何故被拆除,原址就在那块空地上。

大牌29原址就在空地上

我的母校河水山西小学在右边,就在两座组屋之间(第2922)。河水山西小学从1963年办校至1982年,1986年校址与河水山东小学合并成河水山小学。2002年河水山小学又与其他小学合并,到头来还是关闭了,现址是新加坡考试与评鉴局。

河水山西小学,现址是新加坡考试与评鉴局。照片取自校友谢步新的网页


中英文校名大相径庭

1989年的街道指南可以看到当年在河水山一带有五间中小学,随着人口的变迁而一间间地关闭。有的校舍保留下来作其他用途,其他如河水山西小学、河水山西东小学、立达小学,以及位于中峇鲁的成保小学都被拆除。

1989年的街道指南可看到当年在河水山一带的中小学

根据《早报》资料,立达中学于1966年创办,三年后与毗邻的立达职业学校合并后保留原名,1992年与立道中学合并为德才中学。2004年德才中学又与红山中学合并,搬到麟谷峇鲁的新校舍上课。立达中学校园现由PSB Academy 接管。

看看当年的中英文校名,不难发觉取中文校名时不一定要遵从英文校名,如立达中学的英文校名是Bukit Ho Swee Secondary School,立道中学的英文校名是Tiong Bahru Secondary School,立道小学却是Delta Circus Primary School。从这点上大家会联想到位于不远处里峇峇利路的立化中学。

立达中学 Bukit Ho Swee Secondary School

立道中学 Tiong Bahru Secondary School

立道小学 Delta Circus Primary School


几乎被人遗忘的达曼河水

相较在庙弯的组屋,位于河水山另一端宁静的达曼河水(Taman Ho Swee)几乎被人遗忘。

当年大牌5161被拆除后,真的像一个孤独寂静的小区。这几年来河水山兴建了不少新住宅,因此增添一些人气。

达曼河水(Taman Ho Swee):几乎被人遗忘的小区


河水山老店

大牌40有两间老店:永光药行和河滨园咖啡店,从上世纪60年代营业至今,已经历一个甲子了。

永光药行的外墙那四个大字是用石膏制造后上色的,这类招牌字是过去的街头特色,不过现在已经不流行了。

河滨园咖啡店的“金字招牌”是昔日新加坡三大书法家之一的吴纬若的墨宝。同样的这类书法家挥毫的匾额乃昔日街头风景线,现代匾额好些是以电脑代劳的。

永光药行

河滨园咖啡店的匾额由吴纬若题字

河滨园咖啡店的地砖保留着上世纪60年代的特色

靠近大牌50的那一排店屋,其中有一间诊所招牌是“周药房”,那些年有一位姓周的男西医在行医,退休后没人接手,但也不出租店面,让它一直空置着,觉得好奇怪。要知道那一排店几乎都是餐馆,租金收入蛮不错的,真的是有錢不要赚。

最近到乌桥头走走,发现空置已久的周药房终于租出去了,不过用马赛克拼成的药房名称依旧保留着。

周药房已经租出去了,不过用马赛克拼成的“周药房”的名称保留着

见证种族冲突

1965年在河水山见证了毕生难忘的种族冲突。那一天在屋子里听到楼下传来一片嘈杂声和叫喊声,冲到走廊往下看,只见十多人从两旁组屋冲出来,手里拿着傢伙,和其他组屋出来的人一同往立达中学的方向奔过去,就在那片草地上和马来人打起来。由于有一段距离,我看不清到底打成如何。

只看了一会儿,妈妈就赶紧把我们赶回家了。过一阵子红车来了,镇暴队挨家挨户搜查,队员全是马来人,手里拿着盾牌,但觉杀气腾腾。有六、七个华人不知为什么不往其他地方逃,却跑到大牌22(16层楼组屋)的屋顶,最后当然被捕了。

第22座组屋

我在河水山住了三年,过后搬到亨德申弯,大哥大嫂继续住在大牌26至今。现在,我每年都会回到乌桥头两三趟,走走看看,吃吃东西,当然也见见大嫂。


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Friday, September 17, 2021

Singapore 100+ year old wooden boats and beyond

Singapore ship series currency notes

The Singapore ship series currency notes (1984-1999) is a show of maritime vessels. The front of the ship notes depict vessels that have plied the waters of Singapore over the centuries, starting with the merchant craft of bygone days, and progresses to the modern bulk carrier. The series pays tribute to the contributions of merchant shipping to the development of Singapore from an entrepot trading hub to one of the busiest ports in the world.

Singapore ship series currency notes (1984-1999):

Sha Chuan ($1), Tongkang ($2), Twakow ($5), Palari ($10), Coastal vessel ($50), Passenger liner ($100), General cargo Ship ($500), Container ship ($1,000), Bulk carrier ($10,000). 

Singapore ship series currency note

Telok Ayer, the “port” of arrival

Telok Ayer Street was facing the sea shore prior to reclamation. It was the “arrival port” for those Chinese junks voyaged to Nanyang. Four ancient Chinese temples were set up by the Cantonese, Teochew, Hokkien and Hakka pioneers along the old Telok Ayer coast, namely Fuk Tak Chi (海唇福德祠), Wak Hai Cheng Bio (粤海清庙), Thian Hock Keng (天福宫) and Fook Tet Soo Hakka Temple (望海大伯公庙).

Cecil Street and Robinson Road stand on the reclaimed land in front of Telok Ayer street since 1887. The arrival port shifted to Johnston Pier (prior to Clifford Pier, nickname Red Lantern Pier 红灯码头) and New Harbour (prior to Keppel Harbour and PSA terminals). 

Cecil Street c. early 1970s. Credit NAS 

For those who took steamships and anchored outside the Red Lantern Pier, they would carry their luggage, walk down the gangway onto a transition barge, and board a bumboat to shore. Those suspected from being affected by communicable disease would arrive at St John’s Island for quarantine.

Boon Tat Street (Japan Street) and Cecil Street junction, 1941. Credit: NAS

During my growing up years, Indian and Malay roadside hawkers set up stalls in the evening at both sides of Red Lantern Pier. My father and I would enjoy a cup of teh susu under the starry sky and sea breeze. Life was simple. Happiness was found in simplicity.

Road side hawkers setting up stalls beside Clifford Pier. 1950s. Credit Jane Hall

The revolving beacon from Fullerton lighthouse shone at the surrounding buildings periodically. I always admired lighthouses because they symbolise a ray of hope for seafarers. 

Fullerton lighthouse on top of Fullerton Building, 1958. Credit SPH photo, NAS.

Telok Ayer Basin was next to the pier. Chinese called it No. 4 gate (四号码头). Breakwaters sheltered the basin from open sea.  The basin was a calm and safe haven for lighters. Many Hokkien coolies lived at coolie keng (coolie quarters) inside those shophouses on Cecil Street. For survival, they formed “bang” to protect their respective interest. Teochew coolies settled at Cha Chun Tau (柴船头) at the mid-stream of Singapore River where Clarke Quay is today.

Telok Ayer Basin or No. 4 Gate (四号码头) c.1970s. Postcard photo.

Singapore River was “colourful” in the past. It had a foul stench and was black like kopi-o during low tide. It became brownish similar to teh-c when raining. The water was adorable like green tea during high tide. That was the time for us to dive into the river.

 

Differences between Tongkang and Twakow

During the foundation years, Indian boat builders came with the British East India Company and built small Indian Tongkang. They were propelled using paddles and wooden poles. When Chinese business flourished in the second half of 19th century, Chinese ventured into wooden boat business and constructed larger tongkang and twakow. As tongkang grew in size, the Cavanagh Bridge at the mouth of Singapore River limited them from entering. They usually berthed at Kallang River or Beach Road near the Kallang River mouth.

Wooden boat yard at Kallang River. Credit Chin Kang Huay Kuan

Chinese tongkang has 40% more cargo capacity than the Twakow. Tongkang is about 20m length,  6m width and  4.5m depth. They have slightly rounder hull and double-ended bow influenced by South India design. They travelled international waters to Thailand, Myanmar, Indonesia either towed by tugboat or rigged with wind sails. As two-way trips would take weeks, sleeping quarters were provided for the crew.

During the Japanese occupation period, the military government ordered the boatbuilders to construct more tongkangs to transport tin, logs and other goods from Indonesia and Malaya. The Japanese set high quality standard for boat building which generated positive influence after the war.

What we usually saw at Singapore River and Telok Ayer Basin are Twakows. They are about 15m length, 5m width and 3.8m depth. They are flat bottom in order to gain useable space for cargo. I believe the ancient Chinese junks (sha chuan) designed for beaching provided some inspiration. In addition, Twakow has flat bow and stern, similar to those Chinese junks which ferried waves of China immigrants to this part of the world. Twakow operated near coast within port limit mainly because of its low freeboard.

Red bow twakow berthed at Cha Chun Tau (Clarke Quay). Photo from Internet 

Initially they were moved by paddles and poles just like the Indian tongkang. When technology became more affordable after WW2, they were either towed by tugboats or engine-powered. They grew in size to 200 ton, ten time increase from the Indian tongkang’s era.

Their bows are either Red or Green.  Red for Teochew and green for Hokkien. Twakow is “tua-go” in Teochew, “tua-gor” in Hokkien. Cantonese called them “big-eye rooster” (大眼鸡) because there are a pair of eyes at the bow to recognise their ways home.

 

Pinisi, Parari and the Bugis and Makassarese traders

Bugis are seafarers from Sulawesi. They travelled to Singapore on their distinctive boats known as perahus.  They brought with them spices, specialised sea and forest produce gathered from the islands of the Malay Archipelago in exchange for goods. Pinisi is the latest evolution of perahus.

Makassarese traders are also seafarers from Sulawesi. They sailed with Palari from Sulawesi, a type of Indonesian sailing-vessel for transporting goods and people in the 20th century. Palari are equipped with pinisi rig which carries 7 to 8 sails on two masts. They ceased to come to Singapore after WW2.

Palari berthed at Kallang River. Credit NAS

 

Opening of Suez Canal is an important milestone

The opening of Suez Canal in 1869 was an important milestone for Singapore maritime trade. The New Harbour at Telok Blangah was robust enough to receive large steamships. Cargo tonnage increased many times than before. Very soon, Singapore developed into a port city and became the no. 7 busiest port in the world in early 1900s. Maritime trade continues to be Singapore’s lifeline up to today. 

Steamship arrived at New Harbour. Photo shot at National Museum of Singapore

Prior to emerging into New Harbour, Telok Blangah was home to Orang Laut who came from the Malay archipelago centuries ago. It renamed as Keppel Harbour in the early 20th century and evolved into today’s PSA terminals.

The flagstaff on Fort Canning Hill and Mt. Faber speak a lot about Singapore’s maritime trade. Not long after the founding of modern Singapore, boats from the eastern and western part of the world  anchored outside the esplanade. The flagstaff on Fort Canning Hill provided pertinent information on boats’ arrival, departure, identity, location and etc. With the development of New Harbour, the flagstaff on Mt. Faber did exactly the same.

Flagstaff on Fort Canning

With warehouses set up along the banks of Singapore River, lighters became the key asset to bridge the seagoing ships and godown by the river. Lighters played an important role in supporting the domestic economy.

New Harbour served as force multiplier, enabling Singapore to receive larger steel ships and connect the world in a more powerful manner. International trading firms, warehouses, Malaya railway, factories, logistic hubs and etc. were built along the southern coast and extended to Pasir Panjang and Jurong. Today, more than 130,000 ships call in the Singapore port annually. 

 

The development of the Seaplane in Singapore

Seaplane, or flying boat, was an amphibious aircraft which can fly in air and sail in water. The Singapore’s seaplanes were developed for the Royal Air Force after WW1. They evolved from Singapore I, Singapore II to Singapore III in the 1930s. The Singapore III version, powered by 4 Rolls Royce engines, served as maritime patrol craft. The Royal New Zealand Air Force piloted them against the Japanese during WW2.

Seaplane Singapore Mark III, 1941. Credit Wikipedia

Singapore III were berthed at Kallang River within Kallang Airport premises. A slipway was constructed for them. Kallang Airport, a short distance from town, was formally open in 1937. It was branded as the best airport among UK and British colonies. It sits on Kallang Basin, home to Orang Kallang. At around late 1920s, Orang Kallang were resettled to Kampung Rokok and Kampung Koo Chai, the upper reach of Kallang River. Some moved further inland to Kampong Melayu (renamed as Jalan Eunos Malay Settlement), a new Malay kampung established by Mohamed Eunos Abdullah.

The defunct Kallang Airport

 

Shipyards at Kallang River vicinity

Tongkang and Twakow were built by wooden boat yards at the banks of Kallang River. There were repair shacks set up along Beach Road, under the Merdeka Bridge, as well as Pulau Saigon and Kim Seng Bridge at the upper reach of Singapore River.

Shipyards at Tanjong Rhu were more modernised and high-end. Vessels such as high-speed patrol craft, warships, launches, tankers and tugboats were built and repaired at Tanjong Rhu shipyards. The British’s Vosper Thornycroft was the most established one. By the 1980s, most of the shipyards had been relocated to Jurong as the government had begun its plan to clean up the waterways.

The first Fast Patrol Craft built by Vosper Thornycroft Shipyard at Tanjong Rhu was launched in 1969. Credit SPH picture, NAS

 

End of life for wooden lighters

Singapore had about 3,000 wooden lighters during its heyday. In 1983, there were only a few hundred of them relocated to Pasir Panjang. Today, only a few of them are left and are countable on one hand. The PSA container terminals have a great impact on those conventional lighters and made them redundant.

It is similar to when the digital cameras resulted in Kodak declaring bankrupt, and smart phones which replaces low-end digital cameras. In the 1980s, lighters waved goodbye to the once golden era. They were either sunk near Semakau island or burned into ashes on the island.

Workers inspected wooden boat at the shore of Pulau Semakau. Ashes of another boat can be seen near field. Credit Geoffrey Benjamin

 

Witnessing the land reclamation of Southern coast

When I lived in 141-B Hill Street, the coast nearby was my playing field. Large steel ships anchored outside Clifford Pier and Queen Elizabeth Walk. The reflection of light from the sea at night was like floating dragons coming alive.

I witnessed the sea beside Nicoll Highway became reclaimed lands in the 1970s. I used to jog along the vacant land in the early 1980s with my Beach Road Camp colleagues while serving my NS there. Soon after Hotel Mandarin, Pan Pacific and Oriental became the icons of Marina Square. In early 1990s, Suntec City and the fortune fountain added to the shopping arena.

In late 1960s and 1970s, land reclamation work began in Marina Bay which includes the Telok Ayer Basin. Marina Bay became one of the favourite outing spots filled with bowling alley, restaurants and entertainment. I took wedding photos in the Marina Bay Garden some 30 years back.

Marina Bay Garden was one of the hot spots for shooting of wedding photos 

 

 “Closure” of the old waterfront – Life is always flow

The old waterfront is now a blend of 3 rivers and the coast. The Singapore River is probably the most decorative and is always providing lifeline for Singaporean. It supported our economy for one and a half century. It turned into an entertainment hub after the waterway clean up. Since the 2000s, its role has changed into a fresh water reservoir, providing portable water to the city. 

Life is always flow.

View of the fresh water reservoir (former coast) from the top of Marina Bay Sand

Twakows are beautiful architecture which were built without any design drawing. They are a fusion of wisdom, science and craftmanship. I do not think we can find something identical in design and construction method at other parts of the world. The combination of the river and Twakow is really Uniquely Singapore which disappeared for about 40 years.

In the name of moving ahead with time, we gain some and we lose some.

Singapore River with Ellenborough Street flats in the background. The scene of Uniquely Singapore had disappeared 40 years ago.

 

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