Friday, September 13, 2024

狮城醒狮与越南华侨 一世纪奇缘

原文刊登于《联合早报》2024822

 

年少时到广惠肇碧山亭扫墓,觉得最新奇的是鹤山会馆舞着两头狮子登山,在摆满烧猪的总坟拜祭。仪式过后,罗厘车把狮队载回坟山入口的甘榜山亭,众人在乡公所采青,表演工字伏虎拳、蔡阳大刀等国术。墓碑林立的13座山头,已于40年前让位给碧山镇,相关的祭祖习俗则流传至今。

昔日清明节和重阳节,鹤山会馆在碧山亭坟山舞狮拜祭先民。

 

李怡生等人成立醒狮团

后来了解到本地会馆、庙宇和学校相辅相成的例子不少,先成立醒狮团后有会馆则只此一家。追究起因,清朝末年的广东移民在大坡香港街经营粮油杂货,这群鹤山乡里于清明和重阳节前往碧山亭舞狮纪念先民,日后于1920年成立怡怡堂瑞狮团,李怡生担任狮艺教练。

1939年《南洋商报》和《星洲日报》报道“星洲南洋鹤山同乡会”(新加坡鹤山会馆)成立,在快乐世界表演舞狮。从醒狮团转型为会馆,主要为了吸引万多名本地同乡人支援“祖国”抗日。

关于清末民初本地舞狮事迹,鹤山会馆引述源自安南(越南)同义社“冯展鹏公史略考文”碑记中的一段文字:“石叻(新加坡)鹤邑梓里每逢春秋祭祀,例必舞狮登山致祭同邑袍泽,以示义结同心。”冯展鹏就是从佛山狮取经后改变舞法,创建鹤山狮的鼻祖冯庚长,李怡生乃冯庚长嫡传弟子。

至于越南同义社的来历,《新加坡鹤山同乡会十周年纪念特刊》(19491231日)收录文章《旅越鹤山同乡会概况》,阐述光绪年间,先民于越南堤岸(Cho Lon)梅山街创建同义社,1924年同义社创办同义学校,1947年正名“旅越鹤山同乡会”。

千里之外的同义社碑文撰写新加坡舞狮事迹,显然本地醒狮与法国殖民地时代的越南华侨有段特别渊源。20244月,我飞往胡志明市碰运气,或许能侥幸看到相关遗迹。

 

探访历史现场

统一后的越南迈入半个世纪,从前的学校和街名都已改头换面,几代新人换旧人,根据手头上的旧文寻找故地颇费周章。下榻的相铁酒店(Sotetsu Grand Fresa Saigon)柜台由一群充满朝气的年轻人打理,名叫卡维(Kha Vy)的员工自告奋勇,琢磨后给我一些提示。

打开谷歌地图抽丝剥茧,临睡前发电邮给《西贡解放日报》请求核实,一觉醒来报社已热心回复。

搭乘Grab私召车前往胡志明市第五郡堤岸,9公里车程花了半小时。胡志明市的电单车达850万辆,跟在地人口几乎相等,难怪公路上电单车当皇帝,连行人道都不放过。

来到阮廌街(从前的梅山街)阮曰春小学(Nguyen Viet Xuan Primary School),大楼外墙有显眼的“HS”(鹤山的缩写)与白鹤远山组成的标志,楼顶“鹤山同乡会”五个大字格外醒目。阮曰春小学就是从前二位一体的旅越鹤山同乡会(同义社)与旗下的同义学校原址,也是记录一个多世纪前新加坡乡里“舞狮登山致祭同邑袍泽”的历史现场,遗憾的是昔日碑记已毁。

越南堤岸阮曰春小学的外墙保留着鹤山同乡会和HS(鹤山)标志。

  

串联新中越世纪脉络

综合《西贡解放日报》和中国广东江门的资讯,19世纪下半叶持续多年的地方械斗,促使鹤山居民前往堤岸安家。李石朋家族的船队来往广州、西贡(胡志明市)和新加坡,主要出口西贡大米、中国药材和粮油杂货。随着侨民对教育需求日增,发动捐资兴建同义学校。

1970年代初,原校改建成现代化中学,工程由林伯墀的父辈承办。南北越统一后,鹤侨变卖家产逃往香港,学校由政府接管。1978年越南排华事件,第二波逃难的3000多名鹤侨,由中国广东鹤山合成华侨农场收留。

林伯墀祖籍广东南海,在同义学校就读,为扩建后的母校设计HS校徽和留下“鹤山同乡会”墨宝。西贡易权前留下的痕迹,成为今日寻访故园的重要线索。

同一条大街上最古老的穗城会馆也是阿婆庙(天后宫),穗城乃昔日广州别称,成立年代比同义社早一个世纪。阿婆庙内保留多面碑记,其中光绪戊戌年(1898年)立的 “倡设机汽水车碑记”出现李怡生的怡生号,总算解开心头结。

“倡设机汽水车碑记”记录怡生号捐赠80 ,光绪戊戌年(1898年)立碑。

 

身怀武艺的李怡生和其他鹤山乡里因家乡纷乱,卷起包袱前往堤岸定居。新越两地船运蓬勃,李怡生跟着其中一艘货船抵埠,结果跟香港街估俚玉成本地第一支醒狮团。

堤岸的古庙、碑文和学校建筑,新加坡鹤山会馆的旧年刊,串联起一条世纪脉络。在素昧平生的异地贵人协助下,将古老的事迹还原。

 

神似的民间互助格局

开辟堤岸这个“小广州”的华人以广东南海和鹤山人居多,我所遇到的各籍贯老人家都以流畅的粤语交谈,年轻人则多数无法以“母语”沟通。舞狮是当地传统活动之一,不过已融入在地风味。原籍潮州的林大顺经营大顺书法店,他的晶华宫灯与大顺书法名气响当当。 

大顺书法店经营晶华宫灯与大顺书法,在越南堤岸名声响当当。

 

穗城会馆瓦脊的陶瓷装潢来自当地的宝源窑,佛山工匠把石湾陶瓷技艺带到堤岸,全盛时期这里有至少九家制造石湾陶瓷的店号,如今已看不到传统窑。 

穗城会馆瓦脊的陶瓷装潢,由把佛山石湾工艺带到堤岸的宝源窑制作。

 

随着堤岸人口增加,广肇、福建、潮州、客家和海南五大方言群成立各自的会馆和惠民组织,例如广肇帮穗城会馆的穗城学校(解放后的麦剑雄中学)和广肇医院(阮知方医院)、福建帮漳霞和温陵会馆联办的福建中学(陈佩姬中学)和福善医院(阮廌医院)、潮州帮义安会馆的义安中学(同德中学)、客家帮崇正会馆的正义学校、海南会馆的海南阿婆庙等,整体民间格局与新加坡神似。 

客家帮崇正会馆外观。 

穗城会馆内的陶艺壁画,回溯昔日堤岸舞狮场景。

 

新加坡河上西贡岛传说

新加坡河上游罗拔申码头有座消失的西贡岛(Pulau Saigon),据说从前从西贡进口的货物存放在岛上,成为名字来源的可能性之一。

开埠时期,《新加坡纪事报》(182964日)已有从西贡入口白米和食盐的记载,日后有多则相关新闻。以《海峡时报》(1869316日)的报道为例,1868年第4季,18艘从西贡来的商船主要输入丝绸、棉花与米粮杂货,其中白米360多万斤(2000多公吨)。二战前暹罗(泰国)、仰光和西贡是本地白米主要来源地,可见昔日新加坡和西贡商贸频繁。

30多年前,本地民间文史爱好者郭连发在荒芜的西贡岛抢救文物,所收集到的石湾碎瓷片中,说不定某些与昔日堤岸有关。

 

相关链接

Tuesday, September 10, 2024

黄良檀·黄金钟

作者:何乃强
原文刊登于《联合早报》2024826

 

《新加坡地名探索》作者黄友平,引述1955年英文报《自由报》所刊,指中峇魯金钟街是以经营船运业的黄金钟(-1950)命名。此街道早在1941年正式命名,不知当年殖民地政府会否以街路名来纪念当时仍在世的黄金钟?我也找不到有关他在新加坡的社会服务,有否出任市议员,保良局局绅等公职、或受委太平绅士,归化为英籍民,对教育,医疗,宗乡团体,庙宇等捐献的文字记录。

黄金钟是印度尼西亚望加丽甲必丹黄良檀(Wee Leong Tan1835-1913)的儿子。宋旺相的《新加坡华人百年史》华文版记录黄良檀的生平。他原籍中国厦门,早年移民印尼苏门答腊东海岸望加丽谋生,设立金福利号,经营鸦片饷码。黄良檀在当地华人社会享有崇高地位。相信是因荷兰政府在印尼的殖民地以华治华政策,他受到荷兰政府重视,被委以名誉官职长达29年,开始是甲必丹(Kapitan),后来晋升妈腰Majoor)。在1900年,他还获得荷兰女王封赐金勋章。

黄良檀在1893年,时年58岁进军新加坡,在马吉街(Market Street 53-57号,创立金福和公司,经营船务及代理征收佣金。1911年,76岁的黄良檀引退,把生意交于他的长子君培,可惜翌年君培病逝,由安基(1874-1914)和金钟兄弟接手。

黄良檀有两个妻子和七个儿子,其中四个儿子先他而去。黄良檀在望加丽病逝。他的发妻周氏早逝,继室蔡束娘皆在史坦利街(Stanley Street28号居住,蔡氏以90高龄病逝,安葬于咖啡山,她的坟墓10年前已被迁移。黄金钟是回返印尼后过世,埋葬在那里。黄良檀有一名跟随他经商的侄儿文庭(Wee Boon Teng 1865-1939)是甲必丹,葬在咖啡山。黄良檀最小的儿子深渊(Wee Chim Yean 1885-1926)也是甲必丹,因伤寒并发肺炎英年早逝,也葬在咖啡山。看上面的做法,可以推测黄氏后人有移居新加坡的打算。

Friday, September 06, 2024

Asian Cultural Symphony Orchestra (ACSO) - A Symphonic Portrait of Singapore's Towns

On 4 August 2024, the enchanting musical performance “A Symphonic Portrait of Singapore's Towns” took place at the Victoria Concert Hall. Organised by the Asian Cultural Symphony Orchestra (ACSO 亚洲文化乐团), this captivating event explored the rich tales and histories nestled within Singapore's vibrant neighbourhoods. They offered a multifaceted exploration of Singapore's identity.


For me, it was the first time to work with a symphony orchestra. My past collaborations with SCO (新加坡华乐团) and Dingyi Music Company (鼎艺团) proved to be useful.

Through Musical Director Adrian Chiang, I learned that the birth of ACSO drew inspiration from SG50. ACSO was formerly registered in early 2016 to champion Asian cultural music and symphonic works composed in an Asian aesthetic. ACSO provides a platform for local musicians to explore Asian symphonic music, which is not part of typical symphony orchestras in Asia or SSO in Singapore. However, the journey has never been smooth. The key concern is to raise sufficient funds to sustain every individual performance and to draw enough paid audience. Even SSO has to give away free tickets!

This concert enabled me to meet the relatively young but highly talented composers Germaine Goh, Sulwyn Lok, Felix Phang, Terrence Wong and Syafiqah 'Adha Sallehin. The five musical pieces composed are Toa Payoh, Bedok, Queenstown, Tiong Bahru and Geylang Serai.

Germaine (right), the composer for Toa Payoh.

I walked around the various towns and shared stories with them. I learned about the musical journeys they have gone through at the same time. Nearer to the concert, each composer brought their unique perspective and artistic vision, weaving together melodies and harmonies that reflected the rich tapestry of Singaporean culture.

Sulwyn (right), the composer for Bedok.

During the concert, Germaine and Syafiqah also performed on piano and accordion, respectively, adding to the magical experience. Music brought old towns to life and touched people’s hearts. 

Terrence (left), the composer for Tiong Bahru.

Toa Payoh - Dreams and Hopes

Toa Payoh is a testament to Singapore's public housing success, where dreams take flight and communities thrive. From its iconic dragon playground to the bustling HDB Hub, Toa Payoh is a symphony of everyday life, a testament to the resilience and spirit of its people.

Toa Payoh was originally known as "Toah Pyoh, " meaning "big swamp". In the early 20th century, Toa Payoh began to transform from swampland to the vibrant town we know today. It became the focus of the HDB’s second five-year construction plan. In 2002, HDB relocated its headquarters to HDB Hub, right in the heart of Toa Payoh. This move symbolised Toa Payoh's importance as the first satellite estate planned and built by the HDB. HDB Hub has become a beacon of progress and brought dreams to many young families.

As part of preparations for the 1973 Southeast Asian Peninsular Games, town parks, green spaces, and the iconic observation tower were quickly built. They became popular spots for family outings and wedding photos.

 

Bedok - Legacy by the Sea

From its humble beginnings as a fishing village, Bedok has blossomed into a vibrant town, where the past and present harmoniously coexist.

The reservoir, once a source of livelihood, now offers a tranquil escape for families and nature lovers. It's a place where the kampung spirit thrives, where community bonds are strong and memories are made. It is the sound of water meeting the sky, the laughter of children echoing across the water, and the warmth of community spirit.

"Bedok" is shown as "Sunebodo" (Sungei Bedok) on Manuel Godinho de Eredia's 1604 map, proving that the place was already known in the ancient days.

Bedok may be named after the Malay word "bedoh", a wooden drum that indicates daily Islamic prayers. It may also mean "biduk", the name of the small fishing boats that were once common in Sungei Bedok.-

The villagers of Kampong Bedok were once fishermen and coconut plantation workers. In the 1960s, land reclamation transformed their livelihoods, with many becoming hawkers at Bedok Point Food Centre.

 

Queenstown - The Firsts

Queenstown is an oasis of calm near the heart of the city. It is a testament to Singapore's commitment to green spaces, a place where nature and urban life find harmony. The rustling leaves, the birdsong, the gentle breeze – it is a symphony of nature. A place where green spaces flourish, and urban life finds harmony with the natural world.

Queenstown, named in honour of Queen Elizabeth II, was Singapore’s first satellite town in the 1950s. This initiative pioneered urban planning, transforming Singapore into a modern, liveable society.

The seven-storey Princess House, once the headquarters of the HDB, is a testament to the modernist architecture of the time. This national monument has hosted foreign dignitaries to learn about Singapore’s success in public housing, and offers panoramic views from its rooftop.

The town centre was once vibrant and joyful, with Tai Chung Emporium (大众百货公司) the focal point of a bustling shopping complex. Cinemas such as Golden City, Venus and Palace became social gathering places, and the bowling alley connected youth and sports enthusiasts. 

Felix (5th person from the right standing in the front row) is the composer for Queenstown. Credit: Heng Swee Keat

Tiong Bahru - Rising from the "New Tiong"

Tiong Bahru is a living museum, a place where the past and present intertwine, creating a unique melody of its own. The Art Deco buildings, the hidden cafes, and the stories whispered in the market inspire multi-generations.

Tiong Bahru, meaning “new cemetery” in Hokkien and Malay, is a testament to Singapore's multicultural heritage. “Tiong” means “grave” in Hokkien and “Bahru” means “new” in Malay. Once a burial ground, it transformed into a residential haven, now celebrated for its unique blend of old and new.

Tiong Bahru was the first housing project handled by the Singapore Improvement Trust in 1927. It took more than 20 years to become a full-fledged housing estate. The architectural gems, with their Art Deco charm, are a window into Singapore's past, a reminder of a bygone era.

The 19th-century graves of Tan Tock Seng and his daughter-in-law still lie at the foot of Outram Hill, directly opposite Tiong Bahru. These ancient landmarks are silent witnesses to the changing landscape of the Tiong Bahru.

 

Geylang Serai – An Affection of Malay Settlement

Geylang Serai is the heart of Singapore's Malay community,  where traditions are cherished and celebrations are vibrant.  It is a feast for the senses. The aroma of spices, the vibrant textiles, the call to prayer – it's a symphony of Malay culture.

Did you know that Geylang means factory, Serai means lemongrass? Once upon a time, Geylang Serai was where lemongrass was grown and processed into essential oil. Lemongrass is also used to add flavour to Tom Yum, Nyonya's assam fish head and Malay’s curry.

Street names usually include Road, Lorong, Avenue, etc. However, Geylang Serai (Road) is unique. It is just Geylang Serai.

The traditional Malay theatre arts of Bangsawan are an integral part of the local community. The Malay tradition also attracted the Peranakans and Eurasians, who all had their troupes. These performances, full of the essence of multiculturalism, captured the hearts of the people of Geylang Serai.

During the Japanese occupation, some of the residents of Geylang Serai grew tapioca, locally known as ubi. This gave rise to Kampong Ubi.

ACSO Musical Director Adrian Chiang is the person holding the mic. Credit: ACSO


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