Friday, February 18, 2022

芭窑浮生

原文刊登于《书写文学》VOL 9, 2020

原来多年来,大巴窑长在我心间。

上世纪70年代,新加坡电视台积极打造本土文化,我在邻居家初识陈建彬编写的《家在大巴窑》。笨重的电视机藏在大箱子内,扭开电视后必须等上30秒才发出声响,一分钟后才出现模糊的影像,真是名符其实的人未到,声先到。明明是光速比声波快,电视机却偏偏颠覆常识。



(1960年代本地设计生产的Setron电视机。图片来源:Roots.sg)

邻居的Philips电视机,中文名叫“菲力士”,不晓得什么时候变成飞利浦。邻居神气地说,菲立士是荷兰制造的名牌货,全世界销量第一,你们在联络所看的是日本货,便宜一倍的水货,影像声响都比名牌差得远了。


(声宝牌电视机的报章广告。1972年。)

荷兰,不简单啊!过年才有机会喝荷兰水,玩荷兰牌;荷兰豆炒三层肉,荷兰薯煮咖喱,那是美好的一顿了;至于带人“游花园”,那是“带你去荷兰”。荷兰肯定是很大,很漂亮,很有气派,也很容易走失的了。

于是每个星期天下午,我们注视着荧光屏,沉浸在大巴窑组屋的情节中。明明是编出来的,陈建彬却写得好像煞有其事。垂直甘榜的环境,潜移默化中改变国人的观念,放弃鸡啼狗吠,星夜踏着黄泥路回家的乡居,迁入灯火明亮的新镇生活。

那时候我在俗称“72家房客”的店屋居住,上学前放学后都自己料理煮食,往往为了小小的共用厨房和厕所发愁,有个属于自己的单位是个摘星梦。至于组屋楼下的店铺和洋灰游乐场,吸引力倒不大。 “我的家在骑楼上,楼下是个好地方,不管世界怎么样,只知楼下是天堂。”住家骑楼下的世界五花八门,附近又有山有水,大地就是最好的游乐场。

以前的大巴窑头上长草,叫做“大芭窑”,电视里头的大巴窑即没有山芭,又没有窑穴,为什么取个“大巴窑”这么古怪的名字呢?为此我纳闷了半辈子。原来“巴窑”的马来文原意为“沼泽地”。这块大沼泽地的确辽阔, 1846年的新加坡海峡地图上已经标志了“大巴窑”(Toah Pyoh,大片沼泽地)和“大巴窑内”(Toah Pyoh Lye,大片沼泽地的深处),大巴窑内就是现在的咖啡山,一百年前开始成为迁葬的墓地。



从山芭到卫星镇


上世纪60年代,偌大的大巴窑还是乡村地带的时候,老师叫同学们列举新加坡的名胜地。我住在水仙门,生活离不开皇家山和伊丽莎白道,坐在国家剧场后面山坡的梯阶看免费演出,好位置被占领了,只好在山风虫鸣中聆听《 百灵鸟,你这美妙的歌手 》。偶尔搭乘112号巴士到植物园看猴子,或是登上145号巴士去虎豹别墅看神话故事。当同学说花柏山、金宫别墅和双林寺的时候,眼睛都瞪大了。终于等到某一天,父亲带我搭乘霸王车,来到偏远的双林寺。不晓得为什么,从前看到重重楼阁的双林寺,总觉得大得无法形容,跟常见的庙宇不可同日而语,难怪成为旅游胜地了。


(大巴窑金吉道旁的莲山双林寺城隍庙。2017年。)


(大巴窑金吉道旁的莲山双林寺城隍庙。1954年。图片来源:互联网。)

从前不知道坐落在山芭附近的双林寺所隐藏的故事,后来知道了。中日战争爆发后,南洋的热血青年响应回国抗日的号召,这群南侨机工在滇缅公路上开着大卡车,从缅甸输送物资到云南,双林寺就是训练机工的大本营。时任住持普亮法师除了提供场地外,亦在双林寺办斋筵,为星华筹赈会募得大笔款项。出家人的法门不清净,普亮法师成为日军检证的对象,从容就义了。

双林寺有庄严的大雄宝殿和藏经楼,寺庙旁的金吉道则是个龙蛇混杂之地。私会党猖獗的年代,每个甘榜,每条村落都有地头蛇,德士霸王车都不敢入村,以免搭上天堂有路你不走,地狱无门闯进来的霉运。

甘榜标榜着旧时代,留存在年纪较大的国人的记忆里。甘榜精神建立在人的感情上,洋溢在空气中的是浓浓的,接地气的乡土情。甘榜设施虽然不足,但金窝银窝比不上自己的狗窝,居民不愿意搬迁,已经迁徙的则想回到从前。新居的生活空间缩小了,不能种菜也不能饲养家禽,连过年才有鸡鸭吃的日子都被剥夺,难免心理不平衡。时任总理李光耀下乡访问,最终跟住户达成共识。

大巴窑赶上建屋局的第二个五年建屋计划,甘榜消失了,山丘的泥土填平加冷河的沼泽地,建筑工地到处可见来自广东三水、清远等地区的红头巾和蓝头巾,任劳任怨地挑起广厦千万间。1970年初的大巴窑已经发展成为十多万人口的卫星镇,有设施完善的镇中心,每个邻区都有商店、巴刹、工厂和学校,足不出镇便可安居乐业。



(大巴窑一巷。小山坡上的第165,166和167座组屋已经拆除。图片来源:互联网。)


让梦想起飞


1973年新加坡第一次主办东南亚半岛运动会,电视台全日直播赛项。短短的两个星期,大巴窑成为东南亚的熔炉。

大巴窑中心刚落成的四栋点式组屋(175, 179, 191 和 193座)先让选手入住,对面的综合体育场就是选手们冲刺角逐的地方。我们为19岁的金牌姑娘陈丽燕雀跃欢呼,期待她继续拼搏,让国人的梦想起飞。陈丽燕11岁便参加国际游泳赛事,正常人无忧无虑的童年,放学后跟同学逛街看戏的日子都离她十分遥远。东运会结束后,陈丽燕宣布退休。



(陈丽燕 Patricia Chan,1966。图片来源:Wikipedia。)

上世纪70年代也是本地文艺团体蓬勃发展,伙伴们度过谈人生,追求理想的青涩岁月。70年代中叶持续五年的逮捕行动,严重打击文团的生态,一时间人心惶惶,在维多利亚剧院和国家剧场的文娱表演从高峰掉入平地。大型的公众演出做不成了,只好转换跑道做对内汇报。


(在维多利亚剧院的演出剧照。图片来源:1974生活剧社文艺晚会。)

我们学府的中文协会在社团法令下独立运作,同学们都有强烈的传播健康文艺的使命感,期待艺术之花盛开,说开了不也就像电视台一样,打造新加坡文化吗?对外演出的年代,协会通过售票来支持团体的运作,失去公开的大舞台后,协会改变方式,跟光前戏院一拍即合,在人口稠密的大巴窑镇中心播映长城、凤凰的《我又来也》《红缨刀》,这些武侠片弘扬正义又少教条,多数观众都可以接受。有些大巴窑居民看到同学们热情地逐户敲门,甚至买下整叠戏票,这几张是阿姨家的,那几张是表嫂的….。星期天的早场,千五个座位都坐满了。


(《红缨刀》海报。)


明天会更好


30多年前,我的第一份正式职业,雇主竟然是大巴窑一巷的菲力士。这里原为甘蜜大王佘有进的种植园,腹地延伸至武吉知马,最近我们还在菲力士附近的小丛林中探访佘有进的坟墓。


(佘有进墓。2019年。)

记得接到这家荷兰公司邀请面试的电话时,是否被录取已经不重要了。文团的伙伴眼中,跨国公司的形象烂透,都是吃人不吐渣的资本主义者。尤其是美国厂,hire and fire,千方百计地剥削劳工,没利益可图的时候就卷席而去,全然不顾工人死活。可是走出军营后,能够提供合理的就业机会的,偏偏是被唾弃的跨国企业。

菲力士是新加坡第一家跨国电器公司,早在1951年殖民地时代已经进军新加坡,1970年代在大巴窑兴建电器制造厂。那三栋“很大”的五层楼建筑,专门生产黑白与彩色电视机、收音录音机、随身听(walkman)、电视调谐器等。傍晚下班时分,成千上万名女工像瀑布泉涌般冲出工厂大门,大巴窑出现一片温暖的蓝海。

充满阳光气的女工有些在大巴窑长大,有些越过长堤,在工厂附近租房子。年轻女孩喜欢喋喋私语,时而爆出爽朗笑声,路人已习以为常。跨国企业的工资福利都比华人公司好,女工想到在大巴窑组织自己的小家庭,不免喜滋滋的为憧憬而奋斗。



(1980年代充满阳光气的Philips女工。图片来源:NAS)

菲力士打开中国市场,成为第一家在长春设立电视机制造厂的跨国企业。长春工厂兴建期间,本地负责生产双倍数量的彩电供应到吉林省,中国的领导、工程师和生产员工一批批的前来取经。为了应付额外订单,女工拍胸口讲义气,自愿调整作息做轮班,为公司解决当前的难题。

我刚在那儿上班的时候,菲立士电视仍属新加坡的第一品牌。上司说荷兰厂有人情味,不像美国公司那样随时炒鱿鱼,我可以放心地规划人生大计。事实上形势比人强,两年间菲立士电视机销售量从老大变成老三,日本品牌将顾客抢了过去。公司大幅度节省成本,优厚的花红没了,还在一年内进行两轮裁员行动。虽然我的饭碗不受影响,但为了寻找更好的出路,还是决定回返校园,做个成熟的超龄生。



21世纪的光和热


大巴窑也有老化的时候。大巴窑一巷的三房式住户陆续“提升”,空置的屋子改为让独居老人居住的租赁组屋。住在第160座的史先生无妻无儿,平日有义工上门送茶饭。他活到老学到老,十多年前以78岁高龄参与国家博物馆导览员培训,成为文物局年纪最大的义务导览员。80多岁无法负荷导览任务后,依然积极的为新学员上课培训,奉献发热的余生。


(大巴窑一巷第160座组屋:这里曾经是热闹的家居,后来人口渐少,变成租赁组屋。)

史先生经历过日战与建国的岁月,感受最深的却是消失的甘榜情。他以一贯缓慢清晰的语气说:“关在家里也会患上感冒,可贵的是网友们纷纷提出各种各样的疗方,虚拟空间令人有身处甘榜的回味。可是见到面,那颗心却窝藏起来,变得很陌生。想从前,在那夜不闭户的甘榜里,一人有事,大家奔走相告,有人患病,人人慰问,提供药方,甚至有人提供自己服过痊愈的药品,当然也有食疗处方,或者煮好的食疗药物,其实那就是美味可口的食物。整个甘榜就像是一个家庭。现在的垂直甘榜无法复制从前的生活,因为人心已经转变了,我们都变得更自我。…”

乡土,梦想,人生,余晖…。93岁的史先生终于等到国家庆生,缓缓地呼出生命的最后一口气。

家在大巴窑拉下帷幕。

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Tuesday, February 15, 2022

德霖路与王德霖

作者:何乃强
原文刊登于《联合早报》2022年1月31日

 

在牛车水有一条德霖路(Teck Lim Road),人称德林街,是“三条街”之一(其他是恭锡路和若铨路)。德霖路是殖民地政府,为了纪念市议会议员王德霖(Ong Teck Lim,1875-1912)而命名。根据《新加坡自由西报》讣告,王德霖是因为患上痢疾不治,天不假年,只活了36年。痢疾原因是因为饮用水、食物处理缺乏卫生受污染。可惜当年医学不发达,抗生素还没发现,痢疾要了他的命!王德霖英年早逝,未能为社会服务做出更大贡献,令人遗憾。

王德霖生前曾经担任新加坡殖民地政府的市政局委员(Municipal Commissioner),1909年任满三年后就告退,不寻求连任,让同僚惋惜。他因社会服务有功,曾被殖民地政府册封为太平绅士JP。

王德霖受英文教育,在英华学校毕业。他的父亲王求和(又名王九和Ong Kew Ho,1825-1889),来自马六甲,祖籍福建同安,年幼失学,受教育不多。他早期替老板建成打工,“建成”号在驳船码头开设子公司“源通”(Guan Tong),作为代理商。“源通”同时经营硕莪。王求和得到老板建成的赏识,后来成为“建成”的合伙人。老板去世后,王求和把公司改名为“王九和公司源通号”,邀弟弟加入公司联手经营。他最大的贡献是和两位王姓富翁(有海、沧州),买下221英亩的土地,作为王姓宗亲的种植地及坟场,该地又称“姓王山”,也叫“太原山”,也就是后来的武吉布朗,俗称㗝呸山或咖啡山。

王父殁后,王德霖接掌“王九和公司源通号”,把父业发扬光大,发家致富,成为一名成功年青商人,他以经营木薯土产生意而著名。他致富后置业,拥有谐街及厦门街产业,最后在谐街的住宅过世。王德霖曾参加海峡华人义勇军步兵队(The Chinese Company Singapore Voluntary Infantry),成为队员。他也是英籍海峡华人公会(Straits Chinese British Association)的会员,生前爱好运动,是网球好手,代表英籍海峡华人公会等团体比赛。

王德霖热心教育事业。为了纪念他,他的遗孀以他的名义,捐赠母校英华学校奖学金。在莱佛士书院和圣若瑟书院,也设有“王德霖奖学金。”

 

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Friday, February 11, 2022

Cultivating values, nurturing generations

This article is published in the book “Cultivating values, nurturing generations”, Tuan Mong High School Alumni Association, September 2021, ISBN 978 981 18 0861 6

 

Introduction

At the end of 1994, Tuan Mong High School sent off its last batch of students, ending its 88-year-long educational mission. The current Tuan Mong Alumni Association was officially established on May 28, 1996 arising from the school closure. It remains active for 20 over years now, hosting seminars, calligraphy classes, school anniversary celebrations and visiting senior activity centres, among others. The scenes of a thousand teachers and alumni gathering are not uncommon.

 

“Cultivating values, nurturing generations” – To our dedicated teachers with love

Despite the severe Covid-19 pandemic situation, a group of our alumni, span from 40 to 70 over year old, came together for about 2 years to plan, interview teachers, and research into the school’s legacy. The relentless effort are edited into a published book “Cultivating values, nurturing generations” (勤慎诚正 时雨春风) and e-media to express our gratitude to our dedicated teachers. These are the harvests with love solely produced by ex-students of Tuan Mong except for the typesetting and printing portions.

 

The surrounding is our classroom

Tuan Mong was founded on October 1, 1906 as a Chinese school. There were only a school principal, two teachers and 60 students back then. During its heyday in the 1970s, the primary and secondary sections had a total of more than 2,000 students. In the 1980s when Singapore's education was undergoing a major revamp, it was transformed into a national stream school with English as the first language. As the resident population in the city declined, The Ngee Ann Kongsi decided to establish a new school (Ngee Ann Secondary School) in Tampines New Town.

For Tuan Mong students, learning did not only come from the school itself. Fort Canning Hill and its surrounding are our classroom, allowing us to bring those knowledge from books to real life.

Tuan Mong and its surrounding

Harmony and tolerance: At the bottom of the hill along Tank Road, the Hindu Temple (Sri Thendayuthapani Temple) built by the Indian Chattier and the Catholic Church (Church of the Sacred Heart) funded by Chinese donors are still standing on the solid ground. Sandwiched between the two century’s old religious sites is a unique Chinese building which is a fusion of both the Teochew and Western architectural styles. It is where the Tuan Mong High School was situated. For more than a hundred years, this place has witnessed social harmony and mutual tolerance among all races and religions. We witnessed the Thaipusam procession year in year out.

Tuan Mong is situated in between the two historical religious sites: Church of the Sacred Heart and Sri Thendayuthapani Temple

Sri Thendayuthapani Temple established by the Indian Chattier

Indian security: The security who worked for this traditional Chinese school for many years was a fellow Indian, Mohamed Hussain. Since the end of World War II, his family had been living in the school compound until the day of its closure. His granddaughter, Julaiha, shared her gratitude through an article “Tuan Mong High School My Home” captured in the Singapore Memory Project.

Julaiha, the granddaughter of Tuan Mong security guard Mohamed Hussain, shared her gratitude in the Singapore Memory Project.

The major mass transportation route: Tank Road is named after the train of which the railway terminal in front of the school was completed in 1903. The railway joining Singapore and Malaysia was the main means of transportation for many decades. Indeed, the trains had facilitated the close relationship among people between Singapore and the Federation. Today, the CTE and the MRT Northeast Line are built underneath and continue to play the significant role as they did a century ago.

Tank Road is named after the train of which the railway terminal in front of the school was completed in 1903. Source:NAS

The origin of Singapore history: The Fort Canning Hill is the birthplace of Singapore history. 700 years ago, Prince Sang Nila Utama established the ruling centre on this "Forbidden Hill". Excavation in the 20th century found ancient porcelain, glass beads and Kara gold ornaments substantiated the glory of ancient Singapura.

The economic lifeblood: In the early 19th century, the British revived the ancient port of Singapore, promoting free trade and laying the foundation of modern Singapore. The Raffles House, the flagpole, the lighthouse and the time ball on the Fort Canning Hill facing the sea had taught us that the mouth of the Singapore River was the starting point of our maritime trade. The Singapore River is always a lifeline for Singaporean from supporting the economy and daily living in the past, to providing fresh water for urban living today.

Hall of arts and culture: The National Theatre was jointly funded by the government and the public. It signified a strong cohesiveness during the nation building years. It was an important venue for promoting arts and culture since its opening before the Singapore’s merger with Malaysia. The National Theatre organised calligraphy, painting and photography exhibitions during the day, and cultural shows at night. Tuan Mong students used to sit on the hillside to watch free live performances by Teochew opera star Ms Yao Xuanqiu, the North Korean Art Troupe, the Hong Kong and China performances, among others.

The National Theatre was where most Tuan Mong students would capture their fond memories. Credit: 梁秀香

 

Founding Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew cast his sacred vote in Tuan Mong

May 30, 1959 was a memorable day when the general election for the full internal self-government  of Singapore was held. All 51 seats in the Legislative Assembly were elected by the people for the first time. It marked the new journey towards independence for Singapore.

Tuan Mong High school was one of the polling stations in the district of River Valley. Early in the morning, voters lined up outside the school, ready to cast their sacred votes for the first elected government. Opposition MP and Tanjong Pagar district candidate Mr Lee Kuan Yew also queued up to cast his vote. After this election, he became the Prime Minister of Singapore.

Mr Lee's home, 38 Oxley Road, is just behind Tuan Mong, which is less than a 10-minute walk to the polling station.

May 30, 1959, opposition MP and Tanjong Pagar district candidate Lee Kuan Yew queued up in Tuan Mong to cast his vote. Mrs Lee was in front of him. Source: LIFE Magazine
 

Tuan Mong teachers’ calligraphy

Calligraphy is in the DNA of Tuan Mong thanks to the Vice Principal Mr Yang Wee Chyun and teacher Mr Chang Kwang Wee.

The late Mr Yang Wee Chyun was comfortable with all styles of Chinese calligraphy. When Singapore decided to adopt simplified Chinese, he specially wrote the simplified characters for the students to practice. If you are passing by Kreta Ayer, you may want to take a look at Mr Yang's calligraphy inscribed board "Chinatown Complex", which is located at the entrance of the complex facing the Buddha's Tooth Temple. It has already been captured by the lens of many visitors.

Yang Wee Chyun's calligraphy inscribed board "Chinatown Complex"

In 2011, the 25th anniversary of the Singapore Federation of Chinese Clan Associations (SFCCA) was celebrated with a plaque inscribed with the words "Harmony and Co-operation" in Chinese presented by the late Mr Lee Kuan Yew, former Senior Minister. The plaque is now hanging over the entrance lobby of SFCCA. The words on the plaque were written by Mr Chang Kwang Wee. Mr Chang is still conducting calligraphy classes for the general public.

"Harmony and Co-operation" presented by the late Lee Kuan Yew and written by Chang Kwang Wee

 

Tuan Mong teachers' paintings on display at the National Gallery of Singapore

The National Gallery's DBS Singapore Gallery features the works of four Tuan Mong teachers.

Mr Tchang Ju Chi was a first-generation Chinese artist. He was a painter, cartoonist, writer, activist and intellectual leader in Singapore before the Second World War. He is probably one of the first artist who painted “Nanyang colour” as early as the 1920s. He was killed during the Japanese Occupation of Singapore in 1942.

Tchang Ju Chi, fruits

Mr Chen Chong Swee was another pioneer of the Nanyang art. Although he had a good grounding in oil painting, he was most at ease with painting in Chinese ink and colour as well as Western watercolour. His oil paintings often captured Malay kampungs and Malay women as his subjects. Mr Chen advocated that Chinese ink painting must incorporate Western painting techniques to express modern life, and use of English or Malay poetry to reach out to more audience for Chinese ink painting.

Chen Chong Swee, Malay women

Mr Gog Sing Hooi was one of the pioneer watercolour artists whose artistic talents and dedication to the medium placed them in mentoring roles amongst younger local artists participating in the Sunday Group during the 1940s – 60s. They eventually helped founded the Singapore Watercolour Society in 1969. Mr Gog served as the inaugural Chairman of the society.

Goh Sing Hooi, Thiam Hock Keng

For over 50 years, Mr Ho Yee Ping performed watercolour painting during weekends when he was holding a day teaching job in Tuan Mong. When he was studying at the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts, he became close friend with Georgette Chen although he had never attended her classes. After graduation, he used to ride around in Chen's beetle car to make sketches of local scenes.

Ho Yee Ping, Chinatown

 

Members of parliament

There are four Tuan Mong alumni who have served as Members of Parliament: Mr Yeo Toon Chia, Mr Goh Choon Kang, Mr Seng Han Thong and Mr Sam Tan, who together have been MPs for about 80 years, serving in four single-member constituencies and three GRC.

In late September 1996, Deputy Prime Minister Brigadier General Lee Hsien Loong introduced the new candidate, Mr Seng Han Thong, saying that the younger generation of candidates with a Chinese language background could be selected from graduates from Catholic High, Hwa Chong and Tuan Mong.

In late September 1996, Deputy Prime Minister Brigadier General Lee Hsien Loong introduced the new candidate, Seng Han Thong

 

Olympic personalities

Our alumni Mr Tan Howe Liang is a weightlifter and won the first Singapore Olympic Games medal in 1960.

Half a century later, Singapore hosted the inaugural Youth Olympic Games (YOG) established by the International Olympic Committee. The event was held in 2010 which wrote a new chapter in the history of local sports. Mr Ng Ser Miang, a Tuan Mong alumni, served as chairman of the YOG Organising Committee.

 

NASA spacecraft engineer

Tuan Mong alumni Mr Allan Lee, a NASA spacecraft engineer, spent 25 years working on the Cassini/Huygens mission to Saturn and Titan. He has also supported other interplanetary missions including the Galileo Jupiter mission scheduled to travel to Jupiter in 2022. Mr Lee has never forgotten his mentors and classmates. He caught up with them whenever returned to Singapore.

 

Tham Luang Cave, Thailand: The high-risk search and rescue mission

On June 23, 2018, 12 "Wild Boars" football team teenage players and their coach were stranded in the Tham Luang Cave due to heavy rains. Hundreds of volunteers from all over the world joined in for the rescue effort.

Mr Poh Kok Wee , a Tuan Mong alumni, took the initiative to contact the military and join the international rescue team. He put aside all his business, paid for everything, and risked his life with a five-member professional climbing team hired by his company to participate in the rescue operation. His team was mainly responsible for checking other holes that could lead to the stranded site. He also served as an interpreter for the international rescue team. After 18 days of struggle, all the missing boys and their coach were finally rescued. As Mr Poh said, he is only a small candle, but the light brings hope to others.

Poh Kok Wee said, he is only a small candle, but the light brings hope to others. Credit: Poh Kok Wee

 

Summary

Tuan Mong is not a prestigious elite school. Most of the students came from ordinary families. The former students learnt from the pool of devoted and caring teachers as well as the unparalleled geographical environment. They are contributing to the society in their respective fields.

Tuesday, February 08, 2022

若泉街应是若铨路

作者:何乃强
原文刊登于《联合早报》2022年1月17日

 

大坡牛车水有三条街道,构成三角形:恭锡路(Keong Saik Road)、德霖路(Teck Lim Road)和若泉路(Jiak Chuan Road)。若泉路的一端与恭锡街交界,站在那里是面对着恭锡街的标志性寺庙——准提宫。牛车水人习惯上称它们“三条街”。

由恭锡路(右,Keong Saik Rd)、德霖路(左,Teck Lim Rd)及若泉路(Jiak Chuan Rd,两条街道后方)组成的一个Y字交叉路口。 (SPH档案照)

在上世纪,这里曾经是知名的风月场所。恭锡街是纪念对新加坡殖民地政府有贡献的陈恭锡(参阅2021年11月25日《联合早报·缤纷》版)。德霖街是纪念市议会议员、著名种植木薯商人王德林太平绅士(Ong Teck Lim,1875-1912),而若泉路是纪念富商陈若铨(1857-1909)。

很多人向来将Jiak Chuan Road 称为若泉街。新加坡街道指南亦称若泉路,正确名称应该是若铨路。陈若铨的墓碑有刻上他原来的名字“陈若铨”,可作为正名的根据。他是设在驳船码头(旧称吻基Boat Quay),创立于1891年的金声公司的股东。金声公司主要是经营种植业和矿业。根据英文报章刊登的讣告,陈若铨为人沉实稳重,是个沉默寡言的谦谦君子。他全心全意照顾公司的生意,让堂弟若锦有很多时间致力于公益事务。陈若铨去世前几天,曾经到过马六甲,去过温泉,回来后感到不适,医药罔效,因发高烧逝世。相信他因长途跋涉,过度劳累,因中暑身亡?他的遗体是葬在亚历山大的家族墓园。后来迁葬武吉布朗。

陈若铨和陈若锦(1859-1917)是上世纪初新加坡知名人物。他们二人是堂兄弟关系,是开发新加坡先驱,使到新加坡全民获得洁净自来水的陈金声(1805-1864)的孙子。堂哥若铨是陈金声小儿子明岩(1833-1893)的独生子,堂弟陈若锦是长子明水(Tan Beng Swee,1829-1884)的大儿子,是陈家嫡孙。

陈若铨去世后,他的家人从遗产捐赠基金给莱佛士书院、萃英书院以及陈笃生医院。萃英书院是一所华文义学,是他的祖父陈金声在1854年创办的。福泽后人,遗爱人间。

最近《联合早报》的报道(2021年11月20日),才知道莱佛士医院医药总监陈长利的高祖父是陈明岩。所以陈若铨是陈长利的曾祖父。也就是说,陈长利是陈金声的五世孙(也叫来孙)了。

 

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Friday, February 04, 2022

水仙门新年忆旧

原文刊登于《联合早报》2022年1月31日

 

走过年少,走过岁月,对过年的期盼始终不变。物资匮乏的年代,向往节日的气氛;现代人生活紧绷,希望春节感染下看到更多舒展的容颜。

从前家在水仙门禧街店屋三楼,农历十二月伊始,骑楼下喜气洋洋,东南亚唱片公司播放张小英、黄晓君、邓丽君的《贺新年》《恭喜恭喜》《大地回春》《迎春花》…。德盛、华商、钜盛印务所挂满撒上金粉的贺年卡,手摸一下马上周身闪亮。谐街东风和美罗百货公司,大马路海洋时装(OG)和三人恤红彤彤登场。1965年的年初二也是开斋节,本地刚经历过两轮种族暴动,水仙门商家特意张挂“恭贺新禧”和“Hari Raya”来冲喜。 

1965年的年初二也是开斋节,本地刚经历过两轮种族暴动,水仙门商家特意张挂“恭贺新禧”和“Hari Raya”来冲喜。图片来源:新加坡国家档案馆

“扫屋”掀开春节序曲

骑楼上,我们五伙人集体“扫屋”送旧迎新。老房子天花板高四五米,用麻绳将椰骨扫固定在竹竿尾端,打扫起来事半功倍。

看通胜选定黄道吉日,通常落在腊月的首两个星期天。我们依照惯例,丽的呼声报时上午九点便掀开春节序曲。首先拍打两个房间共用的铁丝网,团团尘兔漫天起舞,真有雪花纷飞的感觉。隔壁房梳起不嫁的姑婆们年事已高,拆装勾在网上的相框必须爬高爬低,交给我这个“细路仔”负责。

洗刷功夫告一段落,接着下来煮浆糊黏挥春。红纸上四行金字出自牛车水写信佬,不外是“出入平安,龙马精神,心想事成,迎春接福”之类的吉祥语。

中间房清朝秀才涛伯的门口贴上对联“天增岁月人增寿,春满乾坤福满门”,涛伯提着广东新会出产的家乡葵扇,为我们逐字解惑:“乾坤二字另有乾坤,宇宙天地,日月阴阳,治世圣人生,指日乾坤定也。”我们不知所云,唯有五体投地。

 

家庭主妇传承民俗

阿嫲在世的时候,接下来的大小事务都由她张罗。阿嫲不像涛伯读过四书五经,主要靠看大戏、听粤曲、唱歌谣来吸取传统价值观,并将家乡民俗带到本地,不自觉地负起文化传承的重任。

腊月廿四谢灶,阿嫲特意为午餐多煮两道家常菜,让灶神抵达天庭时多说几句好话。比灶神更大的是食神,我狼吞虎咽后洋洋得意地模仿老倌唱戏:“腊月廿四灶返天。半盏青泉一柱烟,寒生送灶上青天。玉皇若问凡间事,唉,你就话蒙正文章不值钱。….”

谢灶后登场的是 “阿嫲三炸”:糯米粉炸煎堆,面粉炸油角,生虾片炸虾饼。阿嫲点燃火水炉,倒入半锅光裕盛鸡标花生油,姜片浮在油面吱吱叫,表示可以下锅了。她边炸边有歌唱:“煎堆碌碌,金银满屋。油角弯弯,家财百万。大虾大虾,食咗笑哈哈。” 食材见热一片金黄,冷却后放入饼干罐,用茶匙柄将盖子撬开便可偷吃,没到年初一已不见大半。

炸煎堆:煎堆碌碌,金银满屋。图片来源:广东新闻网

“落坡”办年货

阿嫲办年货非牛车水莫属。吃过午饭,梳理一下发髻,穿上整齐的“阿婆装”和黑胶拖鞋,腋下夹着黑色长伞,婆孙俩携手落坡去。越过繁忙的吊桥头(哥里门桥),再和成伟记信局正在为潮州乡里汇款发侨批,四海通、华联、泰国盘谷和崇侨银行挤满人潮,香港街口老福源肉干店飘送着“狼肉”香。

除夕夜大坡大马路的恒利金铺燃放长爆竹后,小孩在满地纸屑中寻宝。SPH档案照

来到豆腐街,原籍顺德的阿嫲终于停下脚步,跟三水婆闲话家常,回程顺便塞盒蛋卷给对方。虽然嘴头上说不用了,但还是喜滋滋地收下来。中国广东的顺德和三水路途遥远,那代人可能一辈子不相往来,这些劳动妇女却在岛国相遇相知,成为帮佣和鲁北行(建筑)的主力。

年关时分,牛车水的街市几个通宵不打烊

牛车水的主要街道几个通宵不打烊,年货越卖越便宜。阿嫲爱光顾恭锡街口的广成香,添些元宝香烛,顺便将港星挂盘和日历带回家。明年此时靓丽容颜就会落架,成为水杯托盘。 

从前的港星日历挂盘,一年后下架,用作水杯托盘

 

吃口安乐茶饭

一年忙到年卅晚,无非为了安乐茶饭。阿嫲的年夜饭,黄澄澄的白斩鸡最诱人。她先在母鸡喉咙割一刀,拔毛清洗内脏后,浸在大锅里烫熟。水面漂起清香的油脂,可用做汤底、炒菜和煮饭。阿嫲将剩菜翻煮后放在“纱柜”里,回锅菜自有别番美味。

年初二开年的桌上佳肴跟除夕夜不相上下,寄望从今以后丰衣足食,开年吃到年卅晚,不过白斩鸡换成“生鸡”(公鸡),象征生机旺盛。

“鲤鱼岌岌头,金银到你手”,取义大吉大利(鲤),年年有余(鱼)。天还没亮,牛车水戏院横街的鲤鱼摊率先开档,天际露白时,摊主已袋袋平安打道回府。下锅前先用润湿的红纸蒙住鲤鱼双眼,平躺在碟子上祭祖后,成为开年菜最新鲜的 “姜葱焖鲤鱼”。

过年的美食中最不健康的是腊味,腊肠、腊肉和腊鸭放在饭面蒸熟,碟子盛满香气四溢,饱和脂肪严重超标的肥油。最不健康的饮料是装满甜蜜人情味的汽水,福南街杂货店老板赠送的雄狮汽水有橙汁、樱桃、苏打和沙斯水,喝不完就将瓶盖套回去。下回伙计送货时,顺便回收玻璃瓶,每个五分钱。免费汽水外加“环保奖励”,想不常年光顾都很难。

牛车水的腊味年货

爆竹落红打造记忆

年初四开工大吉,诸神辞别玉帝,返回人间与民共庆。送神早,接神迟,阿嫲等到晚餐才接灶神,那是因为从天庭赶到来已日暮黄昏,这顿饭肯定最可口。

过年当然少不了锣鼓咚咚锵,爆竹噼啪响。开工日水仙门商家挂高青,狮队派出“吃过夜粥”的精英,上演叠罗汉和攀墙绝艺,就像看关德兴、石坚的《黄飞鸿》一样精彩。

狮队在水仙门采青。图片来源:鹤山会馆

新十五晚,我们散步到香港街凑热闹,这里的福源、福兴隆、广德祥和梁同福杂货行入口东莞爆竹,从屋顶垂到路面。杂货行另找专人表演,将剩货串起来绕在身上点炮,但见元宵佳节金蛇狂舞,彩云追月落红铺路。我们又有365个日子可期待,成为珍贵的旧时记忆。


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