Friday, November 30, 2018

“遥望”大小德光岛

原文刊登于《联合早报·缤纷》2018年11月10日

现在的德光岛是个军事训练场地,从前的德光岛则是民居,有大德光岛和小德光岛之分。破旧的电单车坐上五六人,报废的黄顶德士在岛上改装成开篷车等,打造了昔日外岛民居的记忆。


(1981年的德光岛地图,有大德光岛与小德光岛之分。摄于莫缕勇的德光岛地图讲座。)

过去人们口中的德光岛,指的是大德光岛。德光岛跟樟宜之间有一座名为塞查赫岛(Pulau Sajahat)的小岛。由于岛上有座炮台,当年的华校生称之为炮台岛,带着食粮和汽灯到岛上过夜,促膝谈心,度过年轻的岁月。

早在上世纪70年代,德光岛已被征用,岛上4千多名居民,包括客家人、潮州人、马来人和军人,共用约等于两个淡滨尼市镇的土地。1987年演完最后一出酬神戏后,德光岛开始清场,岛民可能一辈子只可遥望,无法重回“故乡”了。


浅滩海产丰富


我虽然不是德光岛在地居民,却跟德光岛结了一段缘。上世纪70年代,跟同学到德光岛海边露营,印象最深刻的是退潮时平坦的沙滩,往外走了400米,水深依旧只到小腿。我们使用的水井是马来居民的,他们不论男女都在井边沐浴,不介意我们侵占地盘,就是完全不跟我们交谈,后来才明白他们可能来自柔佛。德光岛位于柔佛河的出口,柔佛河的居民光明正大地乘着小舟,来往德光岛是司空见惯的。

浅滩的海产相当丰富,除了常见的红色小花蟹和江鱼仔等,新加坡本岛难得一见的海星、色彩缤纷的水母、鲎鱼和叫不出名堂的小生物都让我们上了一堂自然课。

鲎鱼又称“马蹄蟹”、“夫妻鱼”,四亿多年前鲎鱼出现后,至今仍然保留着古老的相貌,就像活化石。

我们在浅滩上用手捞起的鲎鱼是一对的,它们一旦结为夫妻便你侬我侬,肥大的雌鲎背着瘦小的老公到处去。我们强硬将它们分开,在腹部分节处每轻刺一下,它们便会抽搐一阵子,玩了一阵子后才将它们放回水中。回想起来,对于少年时的轻狂倒有些罪恶感。


彭亨村的王族后裔


30多年前在岛上服兵役,担任比自己年长的后备军人的教官。黄昏过后,多数人都集中在餐厅打发时光,电视影像时有时无,叫人一点兴致都提不起来。在餐厅卖饮料的年轻女子双十年华,爱穿白色无袖汗衫和绿色裙子,在这个阴衰阳盛的地方,大伙都围着她搭讪。有时候她会因对方出言不逊而故意板起脸孔,当大伙儿嘻皮笑脸地买饮料赔罪的时候,就会露出如花的笑颜。阿兵哥换了一批又一批,类似的画面则每晚都重复着。

有时候,我会跟两三个同僚环岛探险。岛上的头颈石、“凯旋门”、红树林等,都是鲜为人知的景点。我们甚至误打误撞,走入德光岛“总舵主”居住的彭亨村(Kampong Pahang)。原来彭亨村居住着马来王族的后裔,被岛民推举为历届老总。1850年代彭亨发生内战,先民乘着小船逃难到德光岛建立新家园。为了纪念家乡,将聚落称为彭亨村,情形跟华人先民下南洋颇相似。


(头颈石)


(“凯旋门”)

(红树林)

21世纪,我重回德光岛,岛上已经面目全非,昔日人面不知何处去,空留桃花依旧笑春风了。


100万元的小德光岛与岛主


较少人提及的是小德光岛。小岛面积只有 1.5平方公里,比大德光岛小了15倍。

小德光岛原为柔佛苏丹的土地(1878-1951年),律师何亚廉(Philip Hoalim)以65,000元从苏丹手中买下岛屿,在岛的西部兴建了海滨别墅和码头。当了十多年岛主后,政府于1968年回收土地,三年后以67,500元作为赔偿,显然这笔数目是根据当年的交易价来演算的。

何亚廉对赔偿额深感不满,于是跟政府对簿公堂,官司一路打到上诉庭。1977年,负责审理的朱星法官裁定,任何富豪当上岛主,都会兴建别墅招待朋友。根据1968年的市价,这栋别墅值15万元,岛上的土地为每英亩4千元,连这些年的利率计算在内,政府应该赔偿100万元。

当年政府动用土地法令,在新加坡本岛以低廉的价格收购乡村地带,一般平民没有资源跟政府斡旋,接受了从甘榜过渡到组屋的现实。何亚廉财雄势厚,这场官司打了六年,最终获得合理赔偿,应该属于少数“成功”的例子。打赢官司时,何亚廉已经83岁,两年后便去世了。


(德光岛的日落。远处为小德光岛。)


何亚廉与马来亚民主同盟


何亚廉当岛主之前,还参与过政治活动。

二战后,新马的进步人士搭上争取独立的列车,摆脱殖民地统治的思潮开始萌芽茁长。1945年12月21日成立的“马来亚民主同盟” (Malayan Democratic Union),吸引了受英文教育的律师、教师、莱佛士书院毕业生和从英国归来的留学生,主席为发起人之一的何亚廉,马共领袖之一的余柱业后来出任组织秘书。委员会以右翼和类似何亚廉的温和派人士居多。

当时英国已经宣布由九个马来土邦和槟城、马六甲两个海峡殖民地组成马来亚联邦,新加坡则被排除在外。民主同盟认为马来亚和新加坡血脉相连,应该作为一个整体独立,由何亚廉领导起草宪法。

很快的,右派分子因道不同而不相为谋,民主同盟变成了左翼人士和温和派的天下。1948年6月,三名英国籍种植园经理在霹雳安顺被暗杀,殖民地政府宣布马来亚进入紧急状态,成立不满三年的民主同盟在局势的急速变化下解散了。何亚廉争取新马联合独立的理想画上句点。

不过,何亚廉似乎对殖民地统治依旧耿耿于怀,1954年的“五一三事件”,本地同情学生的六家报社被提供,何亚廉和另一名律师代表报馆答辩。最终除了中兴日报外,其他包括星洲日报在内的报社都被罚款或负担堂费。


后记:2018年11月10日文章见报后,张曦娜反馈一段如烟往事。上世纪70年代她高中刚毕业,曾经有一个时候经常见到何亚廉。那时给他几个孙女补习华文,孙女们都很活泼开朗,最大的也差不了几岁,最小的小女孩特别可爱。

每次在他家补习,碰到他下班回家,一定客气打招呼。这么多年后,想起当年已经白发苍苍,温文有礼的何亚廉律师,感觉还是挺好的。

何亚廉住在Upper East Coast Road旧勿洛路兵营对面一带,自己建的两栋别墅(前后两间),后面那间女儿住。旧宅相信已经换了主人,拆掉重建了。

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Friday, November 23, 2018

从负面的雇佣关系谈雇佣(修正)法案 (Employment Act)

职场众生相


数年前在林厝港的农场行行走走,某位业主语重深长地说,像林厝港这样的“边疆”,员工都不愿意来工作,加上政府过多的雇佣条例,对雇主绊手绊脚。其实政府只需要照顾好雇主,雇主自然会照顾好工人,让工人好吃好住。

对这位小型企业家,我相信这番话是肺腑之言。像这样跟员工将心比心的雇主大有人在,但您相信这番话能够放诸四海吗?

我觉得一样米养百样人,就像手有正反两面一样,归纳起来就是雇主有好坏之分。

现在谈这些,好像回到资本家压迫员工,劳动人民团结起来的马克思《资本论》《共产党宣言》大放异彩的年代。无可否认,当今的大机构有一套现代化管理哲学,雇佣关系人性化多了,不过还是发生过特别的个案,例如2012年底的SMRT中国籍司机罢工事件。占了新加坡约70%劳动市场的小型企业亦未必追得上时代。


(工友必须自己组织起来,争取劳工福利的上世纪50年代。摄于新加坡国家美术馆)

技术转型、经济前景不明朗、业绩不理想、工作表现差劲、劳工税起价等都成为那些不负责任的雇主“顺理成章”的口头禅,减薪、冻结薪金、解雇或强迫员工离职的手法,这是我当过数年的小型企业项目顾问时所见过的负面现象。说是负面,那是因为员工看着老板一方面通过不正当的手段来牟利,调动资金添置房地产等,另一方面却申诉经济停滞、前景堪忧,只可能更糟糕。

所接触过的小型企业中,有些是人力部的常客。这类雇主不合理对待员工,受到投诉后,最大的谈判武器就是一纸合约。对每一名员工,雇主都只给不超过两年的合约,合约条规以公司政策为主导,至于公司政策是什么,没有人知道。公司为了保障自己的最大利益,一旦从同行那儿学到新伎俩,就会马上修改合约内容,在合约有效期间强制员工签下修订版。

这些本地员工与客工都缺乏相关常识,也很需要一份入息,当他们听闻新加坡有所谓的雇佣法令,提出来要求澄清的时候,雇主就会板起脸孔,解释说公司不完全跟雇佣法令,而是融合了公司政策来制定合约。若是再追问下去,就是没有回头路了。

有时候雇主为了应付积压下来的作业,以两年的合约方式聘请员工,面试时不说真话,只表示若表现良好,可以转换成长期聘约等。到了第三个月,雇主便摆起另一副嘴脸,找个理由来中止合约,最终在僵持的气氛中丑陋收场。这种每三个月换临时员工的做法一方面是为了避免承担雇佣法令的责任,另一方面是为了不要让对方知道太多公司的秘密。


不良雇主操纵雇佣关系


合约员工不局限于小型企业。相比之下,一般大型企业聘请契约员工的心态不同,不至于在员工对雇佣法懵懵懂懂的情况下,出法宝来“吃”员工。

这类雇佣合约通常不超过两年,那是因为公司对较长远的运作没有什么把握。对于那些处心积虑的雇主而言,这也是避免卷入裁员赔偿的考量之一。

雇佣法令第45条:裁员赔偿(Payment of retrenchment benefit):
45.  No employee who has been in continuous service with an employer for less than 2 years shall be entitled to any retrenchment benefit on his dismissal on the ground of redundancy or by reason of any reorganisation of the employer’s profession, business, trade or work.
员工持续工作超过两年,可获得裁员赔偿,不论裁员的原因是基于人手过剩、改组或行业转型。

至于雇佣法令所规定的7至14天年假和医药福利等,最常见的是玩文字游戏,第一年只能申请无薪假期。这些雇主强调所谓的“annual”,就是做满一年,“annual leave need to be earned”,年假及病假都必须以一年的劳动力来赚取。雇佣法令只是规定工作满一年可享用至少七天假期,但并没有明文指示工作少过一年可以获得有薪年假。

雇佣法令第43条:常年假期(Annual leave):
43.—(1)  An employee who has served an employer for a period of not less than 3 months shall be entitled to paid annual leave of 7 days in respect of the first 12 months of continuous service with the same employer and an additional one day’s paid annual leave for every subsequent 12 months of continuous service with the same employer subject to a maximum of 14 days of such leave which shall be in addition to the rest days, holidays and sick leave to which the employee is entitled under sections 36, 88 and 89, respectively. 
员工工作不少过三个月,可获得第一年7天的有薪年假,每工作12个月可获得多一天有薪年假,最多可达14天。年假跟休息日(第36条)、公共假期(第88条)和病假(第89条)必须分开计算。

雇佣法令第89条列明公司必须承认雇主指定的医生为员工开的病假,医药费由雇主负责。一些小型企业表示公司政策不含医药福利,因为有些雇员为了取得病假,不想上班就装病,增加公司的营运成本。有些小型企业则实行医疗费用分担制,小数额按比例对分,若超出某个数额,余款由雇员自己承担。我曾经质疑这种做法的合理性,某雇主表示第89条只适用于公司医生或政府医生,若公司让员工自由选择医生,那就必须“礼尚往来”,各让一步。

雇佣法令第89条:病假(Sick leave):
89.—(1)  Any employee who has served an employer for a period of not less than 6 months shall, after examination at the expense of the employer by a medical practitioner appointed by the employer or a medical officer, be entitled to such paid sick leave, as may be certified by the medical practitioner or medical officer, not exceeding in the aggregate —
(a) if no hospitalisation is necessary, 14 days in each year; or
(b) if hospitalisation is necessary, the lesser of the following:
         (i) 60 days in each year;
         (ii) the aggregate of 14 days plus the number of days on which he is hospitalised.
任何员工为雇主工作超过6个月,可享用由雇主付费的公司医生或政府医生所开的病假,以一年14天为限。若有住院,则以60天为限。

今天的社会文明多了,但雇员还是必须面对这种走法律漏洞,毫无人情味的雇主。

在现实生活中观察了社会进程,倒使我想起清末华工出洋的大时代。设身处地想一想,一两个世纪前的猪仔(契约华工)目不识丁,不晓得自己签下了什么合约,便漂洋过海到东南亚、大洋洲、南非、北美洲和南美洲各地。当时并没有雇佣法令来保障这些形同奴隶的员工的权益,有冤无处诉的委屈可想而知。


以法令来制衡人性


30多年前正式进入职场时,我先后在两家财富世界五百强(Fortune 500 )跨国公司工作,后来在本地最大的政府部门就职,雇佣法令是最大的保障。离开拼搏生涯后,近年来目睹一些企业雇主的丑态,不免燃起满腔怒火。不过在法治社会里,必须通过法来制衡人性,这是现实,也是悲哀、无奈。

阴暗的场面见多了,了解到人力部确实很努力地执行雇佣法。人力部过去处理的不当解雇案例,除了涉及员工被雇主无理辞退,也有员工非自愿辞职的情况,只是人力部向来不公开这类案例。

最近的个例是一位在某教会工作的老同学。她从高中毕业后便为这份心仪的工作奉献了30多年,从无敌青春迈入黄金年华,如今因蒙受不白之冤而离职,甚至连最后一个月的薪水都无法领取。她详细地向我叙述整起事件,显然背后有人精心布局。当时我鼓励她联络人力部的相关部门,人力部很快的介入斡旋。经过两轮商议后,她得到该有的赔偿,总算解决了燃眉之急。

2018年11月20日,人力部长杨莉明在雇佣修正法案二读时所说的:“雇主可能处处刁难一名员工,使整体工作情况糟糕,逼迫他辞职。这样雇主便能省下原本应给予的员工福利,同时也掩盖自己的不当行为。”贴切地反映了那些无良的雇主的心态。

于同一天,国会三读通过雇佣(修正)法案,扩大本地雇员受保护范围,去除收入顶限,让更多经理和执行人员也享有这些基本保障。估计2019年4月1日起,本地额外43万名经理及执行人员将受雇佣法令保护,另有更多人将享有加班费,有薪假日等福利。

修正法案规定雇主必须接受任何注册医生所发出的病假单。

修正法案进一步简化解决劳资纠纷的程序,包括将原本由人力部处理的不当解雇相关纠纷,转由雇佣纠纷索偿庭处理,以提供员工“一站式”解决劳资纠纷的管道。

修正法案也扩大“解雇”的定义,只要雇员可以证明他不是自愿辞职,而是因雇主及其他外在缘故而被迫辞职,也算是遭解雇。之前,解雇的定义只局限于雇主主动终止与员工的合约关系。


(海峡时报的相关报道。图片来源:The Straits Times, November 21, 2018)

雇佣修正法案显然是基于发生过的案例来制定的,虽然并非未雨绸缪,但迟到好过不到。

根据2017年的数据,新加坡有10%合约员工,人数大约17万人。随着越来越多雇主采用合约征聘方式来降低成本,以及结构性失业问题不断涌现,估计市场上的短期契约员工和自由业者会有增加的趋势,他们的劳动力很容易被那些无良雇主所利用。这是下一个必须关注的目标。

附注:独立以来,雇佣法令(Employment Act (CHAPTER 91))在原有的殖民地法令上经历了7次修订。
1968年以前,新加坡有1955年劳工条例、1957年店员雇佣条例,1957年文员雇佣条例。
1968年,这些雇佣条例整合为单一的雇佣法令来缓和紧张的劳资关系,可视为1971年英军撤退,通过引进外资来解决所可能带来的失业问题的应对措施。
1985年,高科技工业必须24小时运作,雇佣法令从每周44小时的条例,改为每两周平均不超过44小时。
2004年,为了鼓励妇女生育,产假从8周延长至12周,并推行两天育儿假。
2009年,月入少过2500元的初级经理和执行员可通过劳工法庭追讨薪水。
2014年,月入少过4500元的经理和执行员也可享有保障,包括准时领取薪水,享有病假及产假、公共假日休假、不可遭不当解雇等。
2016年,雇主的薪水单必须清楚列明雇佣条件,雇佣纠纷索偿庭成立。
2019年,核心条文没有薪水限制,保护所有经理和执行员。工时环节上扩大范围,保护弱势雇员、低薪工人、书记、接待员等。

主要参考资料
1. EMPLOYMENT ACT (CHAPTER 91), Singapore Statutes Online. https://sso.agc.gov.sg/Act/EmA1968#pr89- accessed 21 November 2018.
2. Yasmine Yahya, "Protecting workers under Employment Act: Five top concerns", The Straits Times, 21 November 2018.
3. 李锦松, 陈劲禾,“调低门槛扩大保护 劳资政指导原则改善处理不当解雇”,《联合早报》2018年11月21日。
4. Louisa Tang, “Term contract workers get better benefits with new voluntary standards for employers”, Today, 31 July 2017. https://www.todayonline.com/singapore/term-contract-employees-get-better-benefits-training accessed 21 November 2018.

相关链接

Friday, November 16, 2018

台湾小吃

小吃文化


台湾文化的最大特色是由下而上的庶民文化,国民党与民进党的蓝绿之争并不影响平民百姓的创意。多年来刻意保留的老街夜市,就地取材的台湾小吃形成当地民间生活与街頭特色。由于台湾四面环海,渔产丰富,鱼丸、烤墨鱼等都是一路来常見的街边料理。


(遍布全国各地的老街夜市,是台湾的本土特色)

根据维基百科,台湾小吃的历史悠久,郑成功收复台湾后,自清代起农民便移民到台湾垦荒,小贩挑着各样冷、热小吃到田边、山边供开垦者食用。在垦荒的年代,庙宇举办迎神赛会,人群聚集,所以台湾许多小吃市集都在庙旁。因此,台湾小吃所包含的,是数世纪来先民以大无畏精神面对生活的传承意义。

2018年5月份的台湾行时间充裕,品尝了在台北定居二十年的老校友蔡光州所介绍的地道卤肉饭、梅干扣肉、豬屠口昌吉街豬血湯、大龙街夜市花生汤,食材简单,但精心处理,就像是一辈子就为了做好一道菜的滋味。

此外,也乘搭当地各类公交,高铁、地铁、国运、捷运巴士、电源车(火车)、小黄(德士)、Uber等,去到那儿吃到那儿。九份的芋圆豆花和猪血,野柳的蚵仔煎,淡水的鲷鱼嘴和白玉苦瓜汁,莺歌的阿嫲肉粽,都是价廉物美的地道美食。新竹老街的姜汁豆花古早味浓郁,湖口老街口大路旁的客家煮炒份量大,老板说乡下地方农民食量大,份量小的餐店都做不起来,跟台北落差很大。


(竹东车站:火车也叫电(源)车)

最大的变化是臭豆腐,过去的臭豆腐入口味美,但臭气冲天,真的可以臭上整条街,如今的臭豆腐则少了那种老远就呛鼻子的感觉。

即使是桃园第一机场B1的新东阳食堂也另有乾坤,海瑞贡丸和烧腊饭都值得品尝。烧腊饭的营养均衡,除了烧腊自点外,两份蔬菜、一份贡丸汤、一碗绿豆汤是标准的餐食。


(桃园第一机场的海瑞贡丸)


阿辉面线还是阿宗面线?


其实台湾天大地大,每方水土都有自己的特色,美食也一样,各有各的惊喜,没啥好比的。将阿辉和阿宗拉在一块儿华山论剑,纯粹是贪好玩罢了。

阿辉面线设于台北士林夜市妈祖庙慈诚宮前,配料有大腸、花枝(苏东)或两者综合,小碗25元,大碗40元。


(士林夜市的阿辉面线)

米其林推荐阿辉面线,理由是摊子临近庙口,不设座位。米其林所推荐的不只是食味,还有保留传统和古早的氛围。慕名而来的食客人手一碗,坐在庙宇的石阶上大快朵颐。广场上有回收袋,由清洁工打理,食客也自动地保持环境清洁,虽然人来人往,但地方干净整洁。


(食客坐在慈城宫前享用阿辉面线)

至于人气特别鼎旺的西门町阿宗面线,上午11时便开门营业,络绎不绝寻美食的人潮,形成不设桌椅的老店独特的风景线。

阿宗面线以大肠为佐料,处理得干净又有弹性,跟柴魚味的汤汁和食客自己动手调配的黑醋、蒜蓉和辣酱,只能以“冇得顶”来形容。吃过之后,食客自己分门别类,将餐具回收。


(阿宗面线:食客自己调配酱料(左),吃过后分门别类,将餐具回收(右))

阿宗面线小碗55元,大碗70元。乍看之下,阿辉似乎经济实惠多了。但吃过之后才发觉,阿辉的大,是阿宗的小,两者实差15元。

我觉得阿辉的面线较幼细,随着汤汁入口,差不多是滑入喉咙,不需咀嚼。阿宗的面线口感丰富,猪大肠佐料跟面线一样QQ。阿辉和阿宗能够自上世纪70年代便自立门户至今,自有它的道理。

阿辉诚可贵,阿宗价(口感价值)更高,纯属个人的味觉。


(阿宗面线:食客吃到大街上,形成独特的风景线)


猪血的回忆


自从十多二十年前大规模的禽流感疫情爆发之后,在新加坡已经吃不到猪血了。

台北豬屠口昌吉街豬血湯以韭菜调味,猪血軟嫩,汤底稍微油腻。九份的猪血则以原味取胜。


(豬屠口昌吉街的豬血湯以韭菜调味,略带油腻)


(九份的猪血以原味取胜)

不过广东人不称猪血为猪血,而是猪红,因为见血不吉利,红彤彤则吉利了。

猪血的回忆,也是成长岁月的回忆。

童年时代,阿嫲擅长用猪血滚汤,使用大豆芽或韭菜为佐料。吃过猪血后,排出来的粪便是黑色的,阿嫲说是将体内的毒素排出来。

有时候阿嫲会变化一下,使用鸡血或鸭血。由于猪的体积大,血液自然多,巴刹容易买得到。

乡下人家累积了祖传的饮食秘方,民间的智慧应该差不到那儿。

学校假期当烧焊工,工友几乎每顿菜饭都点韭菜炒猪血,说是烧焊时吸入了有害的气体,以猪血来排毒。

烧焊后喉咙特别干燥,痰特别多,而且是黑色的浓液,所以跟着工友一样,吃猪血来调理。

后来明白多一些科学常识,猪血、鸡血或鸭血都含有免疫球蛋白,跟胃酸结合后产生清肠的分解物,将体内细微的金属粉尘排出体外。烧焊的过程中,金属在高温下溶解蒸发,我们在不知不觉中吸入这些毒气,积少成多,所以烧焊工通过食物来调理。

至于粪便黑色,是因为猪血含有丰富的铁质。吃猪血跟其他食物一样,最好适可而止,过量食用,会造成铁中毒,影响人体对其他矿物质的吸收。


阿嫲ㄟ肉粽


莺歌老街的阿嫲ㄟ肉粽看似简单,其貌不扬,入口则是新加坡消失了50年的肉粽的滋味。说它简单,是因为糯米粽只用了数颗软花生和一小片瘦肉,但咸度和熟度调理得当,没有油腻饱胀的感觉。这就是从前福南街路边摊的肉粽的味道。

可能是因为小地方的老店,生活成本不高,老人家才会保留传统的地方饮食作业。


(莺歌老街:阿嫲ㄟ豆花,阿嫲ㄟ肉粽)


白玉苦瓜汁


台湾路边摊的煎炸烧烤食物多,吃多了可能“发热气”,燥火上升,不妨喝杯鲜榨白玉苦瓜汁清热。士林夜市的白玉苦瓜汁一杯80元,但只有四分之一杯果汁,其他的都是清水加冰块,喝下去淡然无味。

数天后我在淡水夜市喝白玉苦瓜汁,同样是80元,但整杯都是货真价实的苦瓜榨汁,那种入口苦,后甘香的感觉,正是白玉苦瓜散发的味蕾。

上网看看网民有什么话说,原来士林夜市的果汁摊这几年名声都不好,我的遭遇别人早已遭遇过了。反正网上疯传,生意照做,或许还会有些好奇的食客,花钱求证百闻不如一见的风味哩!

一旦证实无误,就多喝几杯白玉苦瓜汁消消气吧!


(淡水:白玉苦瓜)

相关链接

Friday, November 09, 2018

Signs of the times: Calligraphy and vanishing trades (街头墨宝)

On 3 November 2018, I shared the topic of "Signs of the times: Calligraphy and vanishing trades" during SWF 2018 (Singapore Writers Festival). Prior to this sharing, I had conducted two walking tours at Kreta Ayer on 18 and 19 August. They were organised by National Arts Council and Lianhe Zaobao.

I hope through this sharing, we could open up another horizon, accessing local heritage from another pair of lens.

My ongoing research is built from previous works done by 薛振传and 王运开.


Visual Art


Visual art created on buildings and mural walls in public space has become common in the second decade of 21st century. Such work has transcended boundaries, moving away from being about decorative, graffiti and vandalism, to a mode of bringing messages or just simply beauty.


(A 1920s architecture with decorative walls and signage at Geylang: An example of street art about a century ago)

In Singapore and Malaysia, the Penang street murals probably have drawn the most attention from travellers although there are many more decorative murals in many others of Malaysia’s towns and in Singapore. Since the Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic etched 6 murals as part of the George Town Festival in 2012, including a 20-foot high ‘Kongfu Girl’ on Lebuh Muntri, Penang street art has become a main tourism drawcard to the island.

(Kongfu girl on Lebuh Muntri: Penang street art attraction)

Singapore Street Art


During my school days in the 1960s and 1970s, there was another common form of “street art”, either painted, drew or wrote on male toilet doors and school desks. We trained and discovered artists, poets and calligraphers through such ‘vandalism’ works. 

From its underground graffiti roots, Singapore’s street art movement has come a long way and seemed to have gathered momentum since the early 21st century. 

However, in 2006, Singapore has played host to the IMF-World Bank meetings. Two years later, the Formula 1 rolled into town. In 2010, it was the Youth Olympic Games. The spray painted SMRT train was a final test of the government’s limit in tolerating these ‘vandalism’. 

The city got cleaned up. We forgot about street art. 

After the success story of Penang, street art is now recognised as being important in bringing vibrancy to the local landscape.


(Local accountant artist Yip Yew Chong painted more than 20 mural walls. This is a new addition at a backlane next to Pagoda Street)

Inscribed Signage – Street Art of Yesteryear


Chinese business signboards harked back to the beginning of Chinese mass migration in Singapore. The cultural significance of these signboards and calligraphy works may be viewed from the journey from engaging famous calligraphers to vanishing trades.

Inscribed signboards of more than a century old can still be found in the former Straits settlement – Penang, Malacca and Singapore, as well as old towns in Malaysia. But they tend to be neglected and overlooked. 

Inscribed signage is a unique symbol of Chinese culture. It blends the art of calligraphy, wood carving and philosophy behind as one.

Terrace houses occupied by Chinese and Peranakan Chinese had pronounced use of Chinese calligraphy. Shophouses showing their tradenames on wooden signboards and exterior walls.


(Signage of the walls of these shophouses along South Bridge Road. These companies have been disappeared but the external features of these buildings are preserved.)


(The signboard 种盛 of this baba house in Neil Road shows that the owner would like to have more sons because his wife had given birth to many daughters but without a son.)

Those older signboards are written in traditional Chinese and are also read from right to left. For the newer signboards after 1970s, they are either written in traditional or simplified Chinese, and may be written and read from either right to left or left to right.


(The signboard of 黄耀南medical hall in Temple Street shows that it has set up shops in Hong Kong 港, Guangzhou 粤 and Singapore 叻. It is typical for those old signboards presented in golden colour.)


Beyond Golden Signage (金字招牌)


Traditionally, wooden signboards were presented to newly opened businesses, temples and clan associations, or during anniversary as an auspicious sign. They may be written by:

- Government officials: A show of power, added weight.
- Famous calligraphers: Elegance, value, friendship.
- Own organisation members:  A form of dedication and emphasis of loyalty and respect.
- Unknown calligraphers: Usually from advertisement trade.

Shop signage evolved into computer generated bilingual Chinese-English writing, some in four official languages in more recent years.


(咏春园, an example of golden signboard. The restaurant first established itself at the Great World prior to WW2. It moved to several places before settled in Upper Cross Street.)


Traditional Calligraphy Styles


- Kai Shu(regular script, Yan style,楷书- 颜体)- dominated commercial signage
- Kai Shu(regular script, Liu style,楷书- 柳体)
- Li script(隶书)
- Zhuan script(篆体), commonly found in name stamp (盖章). 
- Xing Shu(cursive script,行书)
- Oracle Bone Script (甲骨文) – The Earliest Chinese Word discovered during the Shang dynasty (商朝) , some over three thousand years ago. They were engraved on animal bones and tortoise shells.


(Traditional calligraphy styles)


(Comparing oracle bone script with traditional calligraphy styles)

4 Most Distinctive Calligraphers in the Republic of China (民国四大书法家) 


They were members of Tong Meng Hui (同盟会) in the 1911 Revolution and held government positions when the Republic of China was formed.

- Tan Yan Kai(谭延闿), Yan style Kai script. His brother’s writing can be seen in Singapore.
- Hu Han Min(胡汉民), Li script. His writing can be seen in Singapore.
- Wu Zhi Hui(吴稚晖), Zhuan script. His writing has not been found in Singapore.
- Yu You Ren(于右任), cursive script. Although he did not come to Singapore and Malaysia, his writing can be seen in this part of the world for ONE specific reason.


(The common features for the 4 most distinctive calligraphers in Republic of China include: they participated in 1911 revolution and held government position.)


3 Most Distinctive Calligraphers in Singapore (星洲三大书法家) 


In contrast, the 3 most distinctive calligraphers in Singapore did not hold any political office bearer. 
- Wu Wei Ruo(吴炜若)
- Tan Heng Fu(谭恒甫)
- Xu Yun Zhi(许允之)


(The common feature for the 3 most distinctive calligraphers in Singapore is that they did not work in government office.)

Suggested Sites for Expedition


- Kreta Ayer – patriotism, power, civilian life
- Telok Ayer – early immigration, mutual care
- Geylang – civilian life, rooting
- Peck San Theng – Li (ceremonial, 礼), filial piety and respect.

Expedtion for Kreta Ayer and Telok Ayer are shown here.



















Production Process


The process of making a traditional hand-carved signboard is quite straightforward. It is an ART:

- Wood cut to size and shape, treated with a layer of glazing putty to smooth out the surface. 
- When the glazing has dried, the characters to be carved are traced onto the board with carbon paper. This will provide an outline to work on.
- After the characters are carved, another layer of putty, and thinner, is applied. Finally, the board is painted in two colours, one for the background and gold for the characters.
- The characters may also be “painted” by using gold foil (which is more expensive).


Changing Time


Computer generated calligraphy and CNC machine carving for PVC and Acrylic signboards have simplified the signboard making process. The modern technology is speedy and it can even be done at the comfort of one’s home. The advance in modern technology has taken over the jobs of many calligraphers and craftsmen whom had spent years honing their craft to perfection.


(成发 was one of the famous signboard maker. Yong Gallery moved out from South Bridge Road in 2018 due to rental.)

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