Friday, December 05, 2025

海地狱与汤布院

20254月底,日本九州福冈虽然山樱渐谢,但还是见得到一些樱花。当地白天风和日暖,晚上带着寒意,最冷的一个晚上是摄氏6度。虽然风衣略显单薄,由于没有疾风,把两手插入衣袋取暖,倒还觉得自在。

凌晨一点多,新航班机从新加坡樟宜机场起飞,当地时间早上八点多抵达,通关和提取行李都很顺畅。

在机场附近领取预订好的租车后,我们第一站是河内藤园(Kawachi Fujien),沿途经过景致怡人的田代川(Tashirogawa),令人精神为之一振。公路旁有临时停车点,方便游人欣赏美景。设想得如此周到,怎能不驻足片刻,体验规划师的一番心意呢?

田代川 Tashirogawa 。

河内藤园 Kawachi Fujien。

河内藤园:团员吹落一瓣瓣蒲公英。
 

别府地狱

这天的最终目的地是汤布院的秀峰馆(Yufuin Hotel Shuhokan)。到旅馆泡汤前还有一站不可错过:别府(Beppu)地狱。

地狱总让人联想到独自走在黄泉道上,进入阴曹地府的传说。依照道家说法,魂魄先到十殿阎罗,游历地狱景象,接受审判后才转世投胎或受苦刑。走过奈何桥、喝下孟婆汤,从此结束前尘,开启来世

别府地狱没那么阴森可怖,而是火山地带孕育出的天然。所谓地狱指的是园区内的七个热泉,分别为海地狱、血池地狱、鬼石坊主地狱、灶地狱、鬼山地狱、白池地狱与龙卷地狱,它们各具特色,风貌迥异。

最著名的海地狱,据说于千余年前鹤见岳火山喷发后形成,水深200米,温度接近100度,水面长年腾起乳白蒸汽。泉水因含有硫酸铁而呈现出梦幻般的湛蓝色,就像漂浮在人间的一片蔚蓝深海。

海地狱。


相比之下,血池地狱的景象更具震撼力。池水因含丰富的氧化铁而呈现出血红色,阳光映照下就像一口翻滚不息的血汤,地狱之名显得名副其实。

泉水的色泽与它所含的物质成分关系密切,铁、硫磺、钙等矿物质在高温与地质作用下交融沉淀,造就出这些色彩斑斓、形态各异的温泉池。

血池地狱。

七大地狱之间以日式庭园串联,自然中见人工人工中藏自然,体现出日式园艺一贯的哲理与美学精神。这种自然与人相互融合的意境,不仅是审美形式,更像是必须在静谧中参透的禅意

傍晚五点闭馆时分,工作人员并不催促游人,访客仍可缓缓离场,多拍几张照,或到厕所方便后才继续下一程。日本式的细腻与体贴,往往就藏在这些不起眼的角落里。

日式庭园串联,自然中见人工人工中藏自然。

 

汤布院与秀峰馆

离开别府后,车子驶入阿苏九重国立公园(Aso-Kuju National Park)区域。经过峡雾台高地时,夕阳斜照雾缭绕,山谷宛如被一层轻纱笼罩,峡雾台果如其名。

阿苏九重国立公园峡雾台。

还有些许夕阳余晖的时刻,我们抵达汤布院的秀峰馆(Yufuin Hotel Shuhokan)。旅馆背靠由布岳山(Mount Yufu),入夜时万籁俱寂,只听得见风吹过的声音。

汤布院(由布院)是九州著名的温泉乡,与热闹的别府相比,这里更显闲适从容。在旅馆的天然温泉泡汤十来分钟,前一晚搭夜机、整日驾车游览的疲惫,在滚热泉水中逐渐消散,只留下松弛的心情。

汤布院的秀峰馆(Yufuin Hotel Shuhokan)。

秀峰馆不设餐饮,第二天的早餐在步行距离两分钟的Yufuin SENKE 餐馆解决。这是一家特色西餐馆,两层楼的面积不大,但整体布置干净企理。我们坐在二楼的木地板上用餐,桌上的咖啡与面包香气四溢。四面的玻璃窗,每一面窗都是景,框着外头的绿野禅思。吃过早餐,不禁心情大振。

Yufuin SENKE 餐馆的每一面窗都是景。

 

汤之坪街

离开汤布院前,我们先到汤之坪街(Yunotsubo Street)闲逛。这是一条全长约1.2公里的观光街道,两旁是传统日式木屋,洋溢着浓厚的复古气息。街边商铺别致可爱,有贩售手工艺品的小店,现烤点心、日式咖啡馆与特产店铺,还有颇具人气的猫头鹰博物馆。

在汤之坪街上漫步,不必特意寻找什么,只需走走停停,看看摊贩、闻闻糕点香、偶尔入店闲坐,便足以感受到汤布院清新的空气与节奏。

离开前当然应该上个厕所,免费的公厕设在街道中央的停车场旁,相信很难错过。

汤之坪街(Yunotsubo Street洋溢着浓厚的复古气息。


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Tuesday, December 02, 2025

银行家邱国瓦

作者:何乃强


说到殖民地时代在新加坡经营的银行,早在1840年,就有加尔各答银行The Union Bank of Calcutta, 继后在1856年就有了有利银行Mercantile Bank 1877年就有邮政储蓄银行POSB。其他的有英资的渣打银行The Chartered Bank,它在1859年在新加坡先开设营业代理(Agency),两年后1861年才提升为银行分行(Branch)。到了20世纪(1902),美资的First National City Bank of New York,现在的花旗银行(Citibank),才来到新加坡。

至于本地华人的华资银行,是在1903年开始,新加坡才有自己经营的银行,第一家的华资银行是由富商粤籍侨领黄亚福(1837-1918)所创办的广益银行。可惜的是,由于该行因管理不善,银行经营10年后发生挤提事件,加以有董事触犯法律,翌年被法庭下令收盘,结束营业。此后陆续创办的华资银行有四海通银行(1906年),华商银行(1912年创办Chinese Commercial Bank),和丰银行(Ho Hong Bank 1917年成立),以及华侨银行 Overseas Chinese Bank (为避免混淆,这里称合并前的原华侨银行1919年成立)以及利华银行 Lee Wah Bank 1920成立)这些都是在二战前所创办的华资银行。

1919年创办的原华侨银行,是由邱国瓦(1872-1932)连同陈延谦(1881-1943)以及来自缅甸仰光的富商,加上林义顺(1879-1936)、黄仲涵(1866-1924)、黄奕住(1868-1945)所创办,林文庆(1869-1957)出任主席。 原华侨银行初期总理是邱国瓦。这个原华侨银行开始不久还在槟城、仰光、吉隆坡、马六甲、厦门以及占卑(印尼苏门答腊)开设分行,处理很多东南亚和中国汇兑及外汇业务。业务蒸蒸日上。

邱国瓦遗照。图源:王虹宇。

邱国瓦原籍福建漳州海澄人,在家乡接受过10年私塾教育后,就来到新加坡,和做米商的父亲邱正潮Khoo Cheng Teow 1820-1896)会合,跟随父亲学习经营。邱正潮后来辞去在兄长正忠公司恒春号经理一职,自己创设益成米郊,邱国瓦也转去益成工作。父亲去世后,邱国瓦重组益成的业务,把生意发扬光大,事业扩充到缅甸仰光,开设分行益成栈。邱国瓦理财有道,眼光独到,于马来亚峇株巴辖、居銮、新山、麻坡,以及新加坡各地购置胶园、房地产等,还大量入股和益轮船公司,环球饼干公司等公司。

邱国瓦父亲邱正潮。图源:宋旺相《新加坡华人百年史》

邱国瓦是新加坡同盟会会员,捐资、筹资支持孙中山革命,他热心教育是新加坡华侨中学,道南学校和爱同学校的董事,出钱出力,惠泽后人无数。他的伯父大米商邱正忠(1820-1896)是恒春号的老板,是华人慈善医院同济医社的总理,享有崇高威望,是公认的福建帮侨领之一。邱正忠去世后,由次子德松继任主管。德松的长兄德馨,即清朝举人邱菽园(1874-1941),被誉为南国诗人,是邱国瓦的堂弟。

邱国瓦身后遗下妻子林德(榶)娘(1874-1949),和51女。

邱国瓦和陈延谦,不但是原华侨银行的两位主将,而且也是吾庐俱乐部两位德高望重的领导人。

邱国瓦和陈延谦交谊甚深,称得上是合作无间的老友。两人年龄相差9岁,但无论是在商界还是从事社会工作,他们都是并肩共进。邱国瓦任吾庐俱乐部总理多年,至193260岁逝世,由陈延谦接任到1942年。

吾庐俱乐部壁画:邱国瓦(H),陈延谦(U)。图源:李国樑。

 

参考文献

Shi Jia, The History of Banking in Singapore.  Smart Towkays, July 2021.
宋旺相, 《新加坡华人百年史 》(中文版)新加坡中华总商会,1993
林芳,“邱国瓦君”,《南洋名人传集》Vol.2  229页,1924
柯木林,《新加坡华人通史》新加坡宗乡会馆联会总会 737-761页,2015
何乃强,“两家同名的华侨银行”,《联合早报》2023109日。


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Friday, November 28, 2025

Not Clan Associations, Not Mafias: The Hidden World of Singapore’s Early Chinese Secret Societies

I presented this article at the seminar REPRESENTATION OF THE MAFIAS, A Literary perspective across Asian secret societies and Camilleri's Sicily. The seminar was organised by the Ambasciata d'Italia Singapore and hosted at the Central National Library B1 Room 2 on 3rd November 2025 5.30-7.30pm.

 

Introduction — Unmasking the Secret Society

Singapore is one of the safest cities in the world. It is hard to imagine that barely over half a century ago, secret societies were still dominant on this island.

The term “Chinese secret society” evokes images of tattooed men, blood oaths, and underground rituals — a world of violence and crime. Yet, the Chinese secret societies that once flourished in Singapore were never simply gangs or mafias. Nor were they clan associations, though they shared the same language of kinship and solidarity. Mafias such as the Sicilian Mafia, the American Mafia and the Japanese Yakuza were primarily driven by profit through criminal activities.

In contrast, clan associations were largely charity-based, providing free accommodation, schools, hospitals, cemeteries and funeral aid.

Early Chinese secret societies were not mafia.

Early secret societies were hybrid institutions — motivated by certain ideologies, part brotherhood, part social welfare network, part resistance movement — born out of hardship and exile. Understanding them requires looking beyond their surface to the ideals and anxieties of the Chinese migrants who formed them.

 

Roots in China: Brotherhood and Resistance

The story begins in southern China during the 18th century. In the provinces of Fujian and Guangdong, resentment brewed among the Han Chinese under the Manchu-led Qing dynasty. From this unrest emerged the Tiandihui (天地会), or Heaven and Earth Society, which sought to “overthrow the Qing and restore the Ming” (反清复明).

Although the Tiandihui was banned in Qing Dynasty China, it was not a criminal organisation until the late 19th century in Singapore. Its rituals of loyalty and mutual protection drew inspiration from folk religion and popular literature, especially Romance of the Three Kingdoms (三国演义) and The Water Margin (Outlaws of the Marsh, 水浒传). These tales of righteous heroes uniting against corrupt rulers shaped a moral vocabulary of brotherhood that resonated with the oppressed.

Tiandihui drew inspiration from the folk religion and popular literature.

When migrants from these provinces sailed for the Nanyang (Southeast Asia), they brought this code of solidarity with them. For the ‘sinkheh’ (新客), or newcomers, in foreign lands with no family or legal protection, a sworn brotherhood was not just symbolic; it was survival.

 

Arrival in Singapore: The First Brotherhoods

Singapore’s transformation into a British trading port in 1819 attracted waves of Chinese labourers and traders from Fujian and Guangdong provinces. The secret societies were rooted and formed Hui (), kongsi (公司) and bang () through brotherhood.

The early Chinese came from the provinces of Fujian and Guangdong in China.

The Ghee Hin (义兴) society was established in the 1820s, followed by the Ghee Hok, Hai San, Guandihui, etc. They traced their spiritual lineage to the Tiandihui. Their goals were part idealistic, part pragmatic: to support new arrivals, to provide loans and employment, and to defend members’ economic interests against rival groups or hostile employers.

Birth of the Ghee Hin and other secret societies as early as the 1820s.

At the same time, they assisted the police in maintaining order and referred offenders to the law enforcement agencies. Although the colonial government was aware of the existence of secret societies in the founding years, it was difficult to fully control them due to the weakness of the law enforcement force. For example, in 1830, there was only one magistrate and a dozen or so policemen. The authority had to rely on the leaders of these societies to help manage the community. 

The Ghee Hin and Ghee Hok drew mainly from migrants speaking Hokkien and Teochew dialects, while Hakka dominated the Hai San. In the absence of official labour structures, they controlled coolie labour, mediated disputes, and even ran gambling and opium farms. Colonial authorities alternated between tolerating and fearing them, depending on whether their activities generated revenue or unrest.

It should be noted that clan associations were already present at that time. However, their social influence was still not as significant as the secret societies.

 

Rituals, Loyalty, and Brotherhood

At the heart of the secret societies lay elaborate initiation ceremonies. New members knelt before ancestral tablets, took their oaths, pricked their fingers and drank the blood mixed with chicken blood, rice wine and spices. Such rituals bound them as “brothers” (兄弟) under Heaven and Earth, reinforced solidarity among men who had left their families behind.

At the heart of the secret societies lay elaborate initiation ceremonies and brotherhood.

Brotherhood, loyalty, and vengeance were not abstract ideals; they were codes of conduct that governed survival in a frontier society.

But with power came corruption. Over time, these brotherhoods, which meant to protect the weak, grew entangled in labour control, gambling, brothels and violence. By the 1840s, their rivalries erupted into open conflict.

 

The Age of Riots and Colonial Anxiety

Between the 1840s and 1880s, Singapore was rocked by repeated outbreaks of violence. For example:

·       1846: Riots between the Ghee Hin (20,000 members) and Guandihui (1000 members). The Guandihui launched an attack during the funeral procession of the deceased Ghee Hin’s leader. This was the first serious incident of gang conflict in Singapore's history, triggered by a shortage of plantation land and unclear land boundaries. 

·       1851: Anti-Catholic riots sparked by disputes with the Catholic Chinese plantations. Because the Catholic Teochew plantation owners did not pay protection fees, Ghee Hin attacked more than 20 plantations while the church presidency was on leave. The Teochew community leader Seah Eu Chin helped resolve the dispute. 

·       1854: The “Five Catty Rice Riots” between Hokkien and Teochew left over 500 dead. The anti-Qing Dagger Society’s Teochew members fled to Singapore for refuge. When a Hokkien rice merchant deliberately raised the price, the two sides evolved from a verbal dispute to a 10-day armed fight between Ghee Hok and Ghee Hin. The colonial government formed a mediation group comprising British merchant William Henry Macleod Read, the Hokkien community leader Tan Kim Seng, the Teochew community leader Seah Eu Chin and the Ghee Hok secret society leader Chua Moh Choon to sit down at a round table, which finally resolved the crisis.  It was again reported that Seah Eu Chin played a particularly prominent role in the final settlement. The British government appointed Seah as a justice of the peace, and he was elevated to the position of honorary magistrate in 1872. 

·       1876: The Post Office riot which was triggered by disputes over remittances. The Chinese and the colonial government came head-to-head over the Post Office Incident. At that time, there were more than 50,000 Chinese in Singapore. The remittances sent back to their homeland amounted to about 70,000 Spanish dollars yearly. The amount was expected to increase every year. The government set up the Post Office to handle remittances, on the pretext of protecting senders' money. Some Chinese merchants believed that the government aimed to monopolise the remittance market and take away their jobs. They encouraged members of secret societies to dismantle the Post Office and even threatened the lives of the Post Office staff. The government swiftly deployed the police to stabilise the situation. 

·       1888: The Verandah riot which was triggered by the ban on the use of the five-foot way. This was one of the tough measures the government took against secret societies after the attack on Pickering, the Chinese Protectorate.

To the British, these incidents confirmed that the Chinese were ungovernable and their secret societies inherently criminal. But the root causes were economic and social: dialect rivalry, job insecurity, and the lack of formal representation. It was a world of coercion, but also of desperation, reflecting the harsh realities of immigrant life rather than innate lawlessness.

Singapore Free Press reported the existence of secret societies in 1846.

 

Pickering and the Chinese Protectorate

In 1877, the colonial government established the Chinese Protectorate to regulate Chinese affairs. Its first head, William A. Pickering, was a rare official who understood Chinese culture. Having served in China and Formosa (Taiwan), he spoke Mandarin and several dialects, earning the respect of local leaders.

Pickering, in his writings, described the secret societies as “largely friendly societies”, dangerous mainly because of some of the lawless characters within them, not because of any political conspiracy. He believed the solution lay not in punishment but in understanding.

Under his leadership, the Protectorate registered societies, mediated disputes, and protected workers and women from abuse. Yet his reforms provoked hostility. In 1887, Pickering was attacked in his office by a carpenter named Chua Ah Sioh, reportedly incited by secret society headmen due to the government's tightened gambling control. The attack nearly killed Pickering and led to the Societies Ordinance of 1890, which banned all unregistered associations.

This new order was overseen by the governor, Sir Cecil Clementi Smith. Smith served in Hong Kong before taking up his new role in Singapore. He cited that secret societies were forbidden in China and Hong Kong. Such unlawful organisations being protected in Singapore for so many decades was something unimaginable. However, the Societies Ordinance did not eliminate secret societies. It merely drove them underground.

Pickering, Smith and the Societies Ordinance.

Indeed, the local Tiandihui participated in the fight against the Qing Dynasty. According to colonial government documents, three of the six leaders of the 1850s Amoy Dagger Society were Singaporeans, and most of the Dagger Society members were born abroad. About half a century later, some Chung Wo Tong (中和堂) members sneaked back to China to support Sun Yat-sen's Chinese Revolution. The Straits Times (November 22, 1936) reported that at the time of Sun Yat-sen's death, there were about 200,000 Chung Wo Tong members in Singapore. Apparently, the "anti-Qing" forces in Singapore were still strong.

In hindsight, about 80% Chinese migrants were male during Pickering's time. More than 60% of these male migrants were on the secret societies' name lists. If these people were largely disordered, Singapore would have become a ruin rather than a flourishing port city by the early 20th century.

Number of members and office bearers during Pickering's time.

 

Clan Associations and the Remaking of the Chinese Community

With the suppression of secret societies, clan associations (huiguan, 会馆) became more prominent. By the early 20th century, the leadership of the Chinese community had shifted decisively from the brotherhoods of the underworld to the boardrooms of the huiguan.

Where the secret societies operated through oaths and secrecy, clan associations relied on kinship, dialect, and place of origin. They were legitimate representatives of the Chinese community. For example, the Hokkien Huay Kuan (福建会馆), Teochew Poit Ip Huay Kuan (潮州八邑会馆), Cantonese Ning Yeung Wui Kuan (宁阳会馆), Hakka Wui Chiu Fui Kun (惠州会馆), Hainanese Hainan Hwee Kuan (海南会馆), among others.

In many cases, these associations executed the very functions that secret societies once performed, but within the law. They helped the poor, cared for the dead, and preserved Chinese cultural identity in a colonial setting. Today, there are more than 300 traditional clan associations in Singapore. Some of them are actively engaging in various Chinese cultural activities in the present English-dominant environment, while others are relatively quiet due to an ageing population.

Clan associations took on more significant roles.

 

The Afterlife of the Underworld

Large-scale secret societies re-emerged after WWII. A massive ritual gathering was held in Clementi Forest in 1948, signalling a possible revival. It had taken the colonial authority by surprise. The background of this mass gathering was to form a united front between the Penang and Singapore secret societies.

By the 1950s and 1960s, more than 300 unlawful secret societies were established in Singapore. The city was dubbed the “Chicago of the East”, plagued by gang violence, blackmail, kidnapping and territorial clashes. Even women formed their own groups, such as the “Red Butterfly”.

Chicago of the East.

Determined to restore order, the government launched multi-pronged efforts — combining policing, social reform, youth engagement, jobs and education. By the 1970s, large-scale organised secret societies had largely disappeared.

Yet traces of their past remain in street names like Ghee Hin Street (China Street), Hai San Street (Upper Cross Street) and Ghee Hok Street (Carpenter Street), in the quiet hall of Pu Zhao Chan Si (普照禅寺) where old society tablets rest, and in the collective memory of elder residents.

Traces of the secret societies' past.

Key members' resting place.

 

From Fear to Heritage

Researchers such as Tan Gia Lim, Wilfred Blythe and Irene Lim remind us that secret societies were products of migration and necessity. Their secrecy reflected exclusion from the colonial system, not inherent criminality. Their rituals and hierarchies were attempts to create order in a world that offered none.

Seen in this light, Singapore’s early Chinese secret societies were more about belonging. They remind us that the city’s foundations were not just official rulings, but also by informal networks of trust and obligation forged among the powerless.

Lessons and reflections.

 

Conclusion — Brotherhood, Fear, and Memory

To equate Chinese secret societies with “mafias” would misunderstand their origin. In comparison, the Sicilian mafia and Japanese yakuza were profit-driven syndicates; the Chinese brotherhoods were born from the moral language of loyalty and mutual aid.

They began as revolutionary dreams in China, evolved into survival networks in colonial Singapore. Legitimate clan associations had taken over their influence. Their story reflects the early days of Chinese migration — the struggle to find order, dignity and identity in a world of displacement.

 

Selected References

Annual Reports of the Chinese Protectorate (1877–1890)

Irene Lim, “The Chinese Protectorate”, Singapore Infopedia, NLB Singapore

Lee Kok Leong, The Dark Underworld: From China’s Tiandihui to Singapore Secret Societies (《黑道江湖》2025)

Lee Meiyu, “Chinese Clan Associations in Singapore: Then and Now”, BiblioAsia, Jul–Sep 2014

Lim Tin Seng, “Triads, Coolies and Pimps: Chinatown in Former Times”, BiblioAsia, Oct–Dec 2015

Makeswart Periasamy, “Heaven, Earth and Brotherhood”, BiblioAsia*, Jul–Sep 2017

Munshi Abdullah, Hikayat Abdullah (Oxford University Press, 1983)

Tan Gia Lim, “Insight into Late 19th Century Chinese Secret Societies in Singapore,” Journal of the South Seas Society, Vol. 77

Wilfred Blythe, The Impact of Chinese Secret Societies in Malaysia (Oxford University Press, 1969)

William A. Pickering, “Chinese Secret Societies,” in Triad Societies, ed. Kingsley Bolton & Christopher Hutton (Routledge, 2000)